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without OG and FG, hard to tell when ferment has stopped. depends on the amount of honey per gallon and yeast if your trying to guess. As far as just racking to get it to clear, I would leave it in primary for a month, then rack into secondary. Concerning just the basics, when to rack is not...

If you want a mead that will be drinkable young, you need to put in work. You will need to aerate, and or degass, however you want to call it. (from here on out why dont we just call it derate, or aerass?) Also you will need to give the yeast nutrition in the form of DAP and and yeast hulls...

restaurants, bars, friends. Free is cheapest. If not, then your local homebrew store Edit: Also it is good practice to start a new thread if you are asking a question. otherwise you can hijack the original thread or your question will be lost.

The Winemaking Home Page This will show you everything you need to know

I WILL NOT HAVE YOU SPEAK OF OUR MEADGOD IN SUCH A WAY haha anyway, yes your probably right, but its jsut works together so well. then when people try to improve it it ends up that they are dissapointment.

do you plan on adding the correct yeast once it gets here?

interesting!

You want the correct amount of headspace once you remove the co2 barrier. If you can put an inert gas in the carboy it may work.

what were your recipes? what temps are you fermenting at? what temps are you rehydrating the yeast and what temps are you pitching. It is strange that all five would be stuck, so it sounds like an external factor,i.e room temp

yes. Its popular

can that actually ferment out?! Are you using actual honey? I dont see how such little water could possibly allow the yeast to ferment that out into anything.

I am confused, because I am hearing two different things. First that it was fermented, then that it was not fermented. The only way it did not ferment was that if no yeast or other bacteria was introduced. that would be very difficult considering there was yeast on the apples themselves...

the thing with jaom, its designed to be done per the recipe. He has everything accounted for. He has reasons for using bread yeast, the pith, all that. With that being said, it all depends on the yeast. If you went ahead and used bakers yeast, you will have a very sweet mead. The pith is...

well, you want to "start"the yeast off with something that is easier for themto handle, so water and sugar, then gradually introduce some of the must. I think there may be instructions in the stickies up top

good idea!

Well sir, haha. I have to disagree. I think that there is a lot of good information that is useful for the beginner mead maker. Boiling honey CAN have benefits. There was a very unscientific experiment done by a blogger that compared side by side two of the same meads, except one was boiled...

if you crush the apples with the skins, the natural yeast on the skins will ferment it out. It is a technique some "modern" brewers still use at times, if they feel like it. Spontaneous fermentation I believe it is called. The distinction from "juice" and "wine" could be from the fact that...

So I am starting it today. Going to go with EC 1118, and staggered honey additions. havent really set a timetable for them, but most likely after starting with 2.5 lbs, I will add another 2.5 lbs 4-5 days later just so the yeast can get adjusted to being in mead. Going with cheap clover...

well, I want to do a very big mead for it because I want a somewhat sweet delivery followed by liquid fire. I have chosen scotch bonnets for the job because like their flavor. And they are basically habaneros as far as hotness. I am afraid that the heat will arrive too early though. Does...

Whole Foods sells one gallon of apple cider in one gallon glass jugs for about seven bucks. you can drink the cider, ORRRRRR throw in some honey for a cyser.