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Agree completely, I don't mind spending $1-$2 extra in grain. I also get around 70% with LHBS mill. My wife refuses to let me spend money on a mill when there is a free one to use there. I am able to adjust the gap setting in it, so I cannot complain.

Yes, when going full volume. The process is easy. I personally take a couple point hit versus fly sparging, but quality of my beers don't suffer.

I am running an recirculation electric setup, so I need to keep the grain bag off the element, so I have the following false bottom: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/biabbottom15.htm I use 2" standoffs as I placed my element very low in my kettle. To avoid is too much dead space in my...

Agree with above, I had to plug my original thermometer hole since it to my bag. Don't make my mistake! I replaced my thermometer below a false bottom now.

Hi and welcome to the hobby! I am a full volume BIAB Brewer, and I will say for a 5 gallon batch you will need to start with 8 - 9 gallons of water and with the grain, you will be sitting close to 9.5-10.5 gallons in most cases. So you will need to sparge with this proposed system, or reduce...

If you are concerned, solder after crimping. One thing I see is you are using a very thick stranded wire, this will make it more difficult.

From the website...

Yes. I start circulating at the last 5 mins of the boil (for sanitizing the lines for a whirlpool, so that wort ends up in the pot anyways. See above for my process. You will lose a bit of wort no matter what here. Factor it in as your loses. I gravity feed it, but I only brew 5 gallon...

The math here is too perfect.. I would check continuity and resistance on both legs of your 240V circuit going to the element.

Technically both are okay. The real question in my opinion is what will be your source for elements? Or when you have to replace your element for whatever reason. For that, I would choose whatever makes it easy to get a replacement element in the future. (Best guess)

No, but I have seen SS bottling wants on AliExpress. New 13.7" length Spring Loaded Beer Bottle Filler Home Brewing Stainless Steel Wine Beer Bottling Homebrew https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/dM1InVe

Sounds like you have a lot of resistance in your RTD circuits. If you have a multimeter check the resistance while everything is powered off. ~1 ohm would be ideal.

"I left the pickup tube down during the entire fermenting process including the transfer to the keg. I see no reason to move it." I find it depends on the brew and amount of trub or yeast. My last brew, a dunkelweizen, had little trub but the yeast reached the downward facing dip tube. So I had...

It's actually a DIY setup with a DIY Auber controller. But I would still recommend doughing in at mash temperature. Don't bother with a strike temperature with a recirculation system.

I end up changing what I brew every couple brews to get a different perspective. I try to go back to these stores a year later and approach them a different way. We are always learning.

A 1.25" hole is designed for a 1" NPT threaded nipple. I haven't personally looked for options for you, but with this information, I am sure you can find a solution. Good luck!

A hook used to hold bikes from a ceiling... It was there from a previous owner, and figured what the heck, it works for me.

Quick update: I recently upgraded my weldless element to be removable via enlarging my kettle's hole from 1-1/4" to 1-5/8" to fit a weldless tri-clamp bulkhead. Details on making this transition can be found here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/index.php?threads/656233/ This was one of my...

I did it!!! I went for glory and used the Greenlee punch. Went perfect. like others stated above I took extra care centering the punch. I actually scraped the punch around the kettle to scratch a line to ensure I was centered. I hand cranked the punch and pop! I have an 1-5/8" diameter hole...

Thanks guys, I might try a pilot run on a piece of scrap steel to see if I go jekeane's way or yours day_trippr.