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We went the route of 1 marshall 290 and drilled out our 2 burners (BK and HLT). The MT does have a burner hooked up but we don't use it - just there in case we need it. And probably not too bad to have it undrilled - should be super low btu's.

Not sure what you mean. So you can sort of see the clamp in the photo of our mash starting up. We used the clamp on the copper tubing that we adjust up and down - the clamp simply keeps the arm from sliding down into the mash tun once it heats up. We dont use any clamps on the plexi lid, it just...

Found the regulator on eBay - several for sale under RV suppliers. Just make sure you get the correct one and clarify with the seller it's as pictured.

Not a bad idea. Glad to hear we aren't the only ones who ran into that!

We've just been using a 1" spring clamp with the rubber tips pulled off. $0.99 from harbor freight. http://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-capacity-steel-spring-clamp-39569.html Works pretty well.

Update: June 4, 2010 Been meaning to update for a few days now just been so busy. After months of work we finally got around to brewing our first batch on the new brewery last Sunday. Overall everything went pretty darn well for our first run on it. We did run into a few problems we've been...

We mounted ours with the inlet up first and found the exact issues stated above - the bubbles wouldn't rise out of it - so we flipped the pump before brewing this weekend and it worked out best to have the outlet facing up.

Rather than setting up another style inline thermowell we opted to go with the tri-clover thermowells from Brewers Hardware - so we could easily disassemble, etc. Rather than going all Tri we opted to go with the cam's - less $ and smaller profile which allows us to still tip the kegs without...

Unless there are any unforeseen issues, we'll be running our first batch through it this weekend.

No significant problems with priming it this way - and as you'll see from all sorts of posts on HBT there is a long debate on that topic and everyone has their own thoughts. We do have some pump issues with trying to keep air out of our lines/pump - think it's more just practice than anything...

Some details on the tweaks we've made recently. 1) Moved the Honeywell valve (shorter black pipe) so it's not directly under the HLT. Not because of heat issues as it didn't get too terribly warm down there. However the condensation forming on the under side of the keggle during the heat up...

Thanks! It's been fun. We've learned quite a bit and I'll highlight a few of our latest tweaks in a follow-up thread to this. Also plan to finish our write-up so our details, part #s, diagrams, etc are all up to date with our final build as it stands now. The timer is completely independent...

No diagrams. We just took into account Greenmonti's requirements - leaving about an inch or so of room for him to use the puller tool. I can get you an idea of where they are on the keg but we found each keg is slightly different (where the welds are, where the ribs are, etc). Honestly there...

What are you planning to use for kettles? Think that's a critical piece to understand - you'll want a little room to play with between kettles.

Not sure how many ball valves you need but this is a decent deal - $7 each after shipping. http://cgi.ebay.com/Lot-5-1-2-Stainless-Steel-Ball-Valves-/260586349641?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cac282449

I'll see what I can do - although I'll caveat it with - opinionated electrical engineers - look away :). Our wire color matching went to hell because we ran out of wire and weren't going to go get a spool - we know what goes where so we're happy with it. There was plenty of room between the...

Looks great!

Not yet - we plan to eventually but want to fire it up first and adjust accordingly. There is a guide on the forum floating around - Kladue has posted it a few times.

You're talking about the barbs? Those are the inlet bleeders for priming the pumps. Snake - yup we'll be painting it but figured we keep drilling and messing around with things and it'd be easier to paint after it's together. (Yes we'll have to tear it apart but shouldn't be too bad).

Update April 17, 2010: After a day of electrical work we finally got to turn the brewhouse power on! Switches appear to be working, we can open up the solenoid in the gas valve at the flip of a switch, Love TS controllers are reading temps! Major milestone! The next build day will include...