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He runs an online store out of his house. With birds of a feather and all, odds are he's friends with every single homebrewer, and there's no law against having your friends over. I'll leave it up to you guys to figure out the rest of that operation.

Brewsmith is able to convert most recipes to extract, provided the grains used can be converted, and there aren't grains involved that need to be mashed (such as munich). Of course, you can do a small partial mash if you do require these things, just remember that you might need to do some 2...

I could definitely see buying 10 lbs or so of these as well, please post pricing whenever you decide to start doing this.

Son of fermenter is going to be your best friend. Someone here mentioned getting one on craigslist, I found the plans via google, and I've made two. Even if your house temps are low enough for a regular ale, having tight temperature control is nice.

Any chance you'd share the recipe (if you haven't already)?

jburkh, if your original yeast is a low attenuating yeast, or can't hit the FG that you want due to alcohol content. Adding champagne yeast might make it more dry and lack some of the taste/feel that you might desire in your barleywine.

Secondary is for finishing up/aging. Primary is where 95+% of the total fermentation should happen. If you've got a ways to go to hit FG, leave it in primary and let it work (provided it's not stuck)

Because if there's one thing that people on this forum are known for, it's looting in the streets in a blind rage due to over consumption of a nut brown ale.

Would it be possible to grind the grain into flour if it's wet? I'm under the impression that it must be dry in order to make it brittle enough to make into a find powder.

Second on the Nottingham, very forgiving yeast.

The problem with that line of thinking is that you're *asking* the gov't for permission to do something, akin to a child saying if I don't have desert, can I stay up late. The government derives its power from the people, not the other way around. The duties of the government may have wildly...

The ways I've seen it used, it's about 25% of a vial, mix that in with a 5+ gallon batch, no big deal.

If you'd like a bit more info on that filter, it's in one of the recent issues of BYO.

I can see why they'd do additions then, kind of a similar logic to the Dogfish 60/90/120 thing where you have a very smooth hop flavor. However, what I question is throwing the hops in at 20 & 0, and in quantities way too low to give any really noticable hop flavor/aroma, especially when you're...

I'd back off on the bittering a bit, and put the taste hops in a bit later. I'd also try to get those rainier hops to shine through a bit more, move them to 15 & 5 mins. You're going to come up with an interesting beer on the malt bill, but in order for that to really shine through, I'd put...

Well, one of the things about it is you can't put 3/4 of a drop in. Your porter will carb up the same as your lager.

My old fashioned dial thermometer has been working great, just don't get the digital readouts, but you can read to about half a degree on those pretty easily.

If by haywire you mean starts reading 50-150 degrees high, then I've only seen that 3 times in a row. I got some NIST certified waterproof thermometer recommended here a while back, I'll try it out next time. Better work, it cost $50 after shipping, but I was tired of broken thermometers 30...

Given that time frame, I'd do a PA/IPA with a bit of munich/biscuit thrown in for a bit more body rather than waiting for the conditioning to bring it out. Ambers are pretty easy to run early as well. I'd get to brewing though, six weeks is the minimum in my opinion for getting a beer out the...

I've always seen 1/12 and 2/22. 3/22 would definitely make it a wee bit fizzy.