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Not getting into a pissing match with anyone but if the group consensus of this forum is that the below picture warrants a return then I might need to find a new forum..... :facepalm:

You've made this comment many times recently and it's so asinine. Do you know what an OEM is?? Ford, Apple, GE, Boeing, Microsoft, etc, etc, etc use OEMs. Do you think Ford manufactures every single piece in house?? I've seen you make this comment or a "just buy it on Alibaba" comment literally...

Stainless steel passivates naturally when exposed to oxygen so unless it came in a package evacuated of oxygen you're good...

Pitting? Didn't oxidize yet? Send it back?? What!? :face palm: The amount of misinformation that gets spread on here sometimes makes my head spin. It's a small spec of rust probably caused from a free iron particle on the surface. Hit it with bar keepers friend and be done with it. This is...

Question: Why would you spend all the extra money on an insulated tun when you are using a RIMS? I haven't understood this and have seen it a couple places. The only function use for the insulated tun would be a single infusion non recirculated mash, no?

Lol what?? I use a Chugger and don't even have clamps on my tube/barb fittings. No risk. Good call :mug:

The whirlpool port should be on the bottom third if designed correctly. That means you'll have liquid that is free to flow out of the kettle if there is just a cam lock fitting. Not sure the reasoning for not putting a valve on? Especially when a valve is like $20.

I wouldn't say it's over thinking it. I make something that I ingest (sometimes in high volumes). I would prefer not to be ingesting lead, cadmium or other heavy metals. Also some of the threads I have seen show rusting issues. My thought is it's probably somewhat common but economy buyers don't...

The Concord kettle is a single layer as well. It'll have the same rocking issue. Also there is a lot of info out there on the Concords being a very low quality stainless steel.

I've seen the pots rocking back and forth before. I'm assuming the kettle is a single layer bottom? Those are slightly convex and will rock. I'd recommend a tri-clad bottom pot.

Scrub it with Bar Keepers Friend and it'll shine like new. Nothing irreversible as been done. Kettles heated by flame will do this.

I would actually like to hear one good reason why you WOULD do this?

I'd only recommend aluminum if you're on a super tight budget. Spike and SS have tri-clad bottoms which will evenly distribute the heat along the bottom. A fully aluminum kettle will actually be worse as the majority of the surface area is the walls which will be convecting heat out of your...

Looking for the cheapest option possible? Concord. If you're looking for quality that also has a line of accessories (false bottom, pickup tubes, etc)? Spike Brewing, SS Brewing or Blichmann Personally I have a Spike. I love the welded fittings. Super super easy to clean and install the...

Why are you looking at TC fittings in a HLT? Do you know how much of a PITA it will be to try to install the clamps at the bottom of your tank? One hand holding a giant spring, one trying to align the fitting and one to tighten the clamp. Seems difficult unless you have 3 hands :mug:

Not the cleanest I've ever seen but not terrible. Looks like too much filler was added and had to be ground down a bit. I've seen way worse on the inside of my old keggles! End of the day you're not going to get an infection or anything since it's on the hot side of brewing but you spent the...

I use a little brass or stainless brass. Makes easy work of it!

Assuming you think a radio, door locks and seat belts are also useless bells and whistles for a car?? :rolleyes:

Spend a dollar to save a penny. That's the HBT motto! :p

The sure tell sign is to test the PH. Star San is good if it reads under 3.