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Where did you get the male gas post from? I like that setup!

Bayou SQ-14 should do the trick. Cheap and will get the job done.

Star San (phosphoric acid) does not passivate. If the area is discolored from the soldering process give the area a good scrub with Bar Keepers Friend.

Sounds like you're wasting some time. Stainless naturally passivates with oxygen. Simply clean with some Dawn dish soap to cut any manufacturing oils and you'll be good!

Does it smell like nasty oil? Where did you get it? Dish soap is good for cutting oils but I don't know about the beer. Is probably fine but if you can taste oil then I don't know....

Sub'd for how the 1,800W induction top works with the 10 gallon kettle!

When's the next meeting?

I like my SS BK but I had to do the math to ease my curiosity. The results kind of surprised me! Using the heat transfer equation: q = k A dT / s where: q = heat transfer (W) A = heat transfer area (m^2) k = thermal conductivity of material (W/m C) dT = temperature gradient -...

A bleeder is a great idea however that execution is terrible. What is the process? Open the bleeder until hot sticky liquid flows out all over the pump and the floor!? :confused: Also since March and Chugger pumps are in the $150-$175 range (and have worked great for 1000's of brewers) I'm...

No, it's because it's not true 304SS like Blichmann and SSBT. It's cheap crappy stainless that is made to mimic 304SS (non-magnetic). One of the properties is it's tougher which is why it's harder to drill.

That's because Concord uses a really low quality 'stainless steel'. It's actually a lower grade than 200 series with almost no chromium or nickel (the elements that make it not rust).

This won't work on the Brew Bucket. It needs a welded tri-clamp fitting. I was hoping it was a weldless replacement for my fermenter.

Are you replacing the racking valve or sample valve? If it's a sample valve that will replace the weldless sample valve mind sharing details?

Ha you're suppose to help encourage me not bring be back to reality! However I do see they mention that Paypal offers 18mo free financing in their FAQ page. Maybe I'll have a couple home brews, crunch some numbers and make bad (amazing) decision!

The 2 head brewers I've talked to about the subject say just sparge with 170F water and you're good. Even that is not needed. When we brewed on our system we didn't heat the HLT up past mash temps.

We did the same thing with our first brew. However we sucked in a good 1/4 gallon I'd say into a 5gal batch. The hefe was delicious and nobody died!!

I've been looking to upgrade as well. I'm kind of sick of my cobbled together rig that I've assembled over the last couple years. I've been looking around and I keep coming back to the new Spike System. It's a big upfront cost but I've probably spent more than the price tag piecing my rig...

Have you guys done any testing vs your normal heating times? Compared the standard kettle, whirlpool and trub dam vs this new kettle in regards to clear wort out? I'd like to see some info regarding this (sorry engineer in me). I have one of your normal kettles and have used as a BK. It works...

The sight glass isn't the traditional volume sight glass. It's a inline sight glass. To me it looks just like the bottom of a keg. I'd be a little concerned with scorching as it's not a tri-clad bottom. Also it looks like there are tri-clamp fittings with threaded valves? Not really...

The only reason is cost savings. They already use these on the BrewBucket so it's a part they source and order in bulk (better pricing). I've never liked these used on a fermenter as a ball valve is not sanitary. When the valve is opened and then closed there is liquid that is trapped in the...