Search results

Followed by Baby Beluga and Down by the Bay. You sing custom verses, obviously.

Indeed, I do.

Chugger Pump Curve Unless your high point or discharge point approaches 16-17 feet above the pump discharge, you will get flow through your chiller. The actual flow will depend on the size/length of tubing and associated friction & minor losses. Short answer, you should be fine.

Rubber Johnny with the music video projected on the wall behind you.

Getting a lap dance to Mmm Mmm Mmm Mmm by the Crash Test Dummies would be priceless.

Looks kinda like a head of hair. Starting a couple 5 gallon batches of Brett sour beer, and 10 gallons of saison.

Why Does It Hurt When I Pee? - Frank Zappa Night on the Sun - Modest Mouse Rape Me - Nirvana

If I were receiving a glass of beer, I would not appreciate there being fat on it. I would much rather the beer be a little foamy at first and settle down. You also might upset any vegetarians if the fat is animal-derived (?). Another idea is to get a pitcher to pour the bottled beer into and...

I find it rather useful. At a minimum it reminds the brewer that your water temperature will drop from when you first pour it in to when the temperature of the tun and water equalize.

A cold mash tun will absorb a certain amount of heat. If someone plans to just add hot water and room-temp grain to the mash tun, BeerSmith estimates what temperature the water needs to be and can be adjusted based on the temperature of the mash tun.

I add my entire mash water addition to the tun at a few degrees above what BeerSmith indicates I need to heat up the tun+grain, assuming both start at room temp. I check the temperature after 10 mins, add a tiny bit of cold water if it needs to cool a little, then mash in. After mash-in, I...

I would be interested in comparing several similar pale beers that have (1) high mash & kettle pH, (2) acceptable mash pH, but alkaline sparge that resulted in high kettle pH, and (3) acceptable pH in all steps. I don't feel like conducting that experiment, though... Unfortunately you don't...

What makes you settle on pH being the issue? Do you mean flat as in low-carbonation? Or flat as in dull? Did you measure the pH?

A lot of work I do uses MGD (million gallons per day), mg/L concentration, lbs/d loading, HP motors, kWh electricity use, etc etc etc. It always feels stupid to be converting all over the place all the time. The calculations will be straightforward if your parameters are all in the same...

If you get a cheap thermometer at a pet store (something you'd use in a reptile tank), you could tape it to the carboy during fermentation to compare what it reads out vs what your ambient air reads. Record some periodic temperature differentials to see how they compare.

Wort temperature is what drives yeast behavior, so that's what we want to control. Now the metric you use to control that is variable. Taping to the side more 'directly' tracks the actual temperature increase of the wort, while the ambient air temperature will change due to increase in wort...

I think everyone's goal is to control wort temperature as well as possible. Many would like to do so within an acceptable range with the least effort possible. Swings in ambient air temperature are not critical, but significant swings in wort temperature are. I am not worried about wort...

I have heard some folks say that you cannot tell visually if a yeast starter has grown significantly. I have grown maybe 50 starters in the last year and every single one looks like this once I transfer into mason jars for cold crashing. Left is recently completed batch, right is settled batch...

I don't think you need to lock the advanced settings, but don't quote me on that... Once you have 5-6 gallons of wort in your freezer, the wort will not drop that low, as it will have 5-6 times the thermal mass of the tap water and will also be producing heat. My not-so-educated guess would be...