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Your false bottom opening or braided inlet has a certain height from the bottom of the tun (depends on system). A tall skinny mash tun will have less surface area, while a wide, shallow mash tun will have more surface area. For the same height to inlet, the wide, shallow mash tun will have more...

Yeah. I used to do two sparges to increase efficiency. Now I either do just one, or two if my mash tun cannot hold the water required for full batch volume. 10-15% hit in efficiency, but less headaches.

In addition to hot break, I think sometimes I get a little bit of burnt extract if I don't stir it in too well when boiling and it settles to the bottom, gets burnt. Little dark flecks in my starter that at first I mistook for fruit flies since they moved around pretty swiftly on the stir plate.

I can quote your whole post and still have the same comment.

Nice graphics. More water split up into more rinses will yield better recovery of sugars. I prefer to just use more grain because sparge/drain/sparge/drain/sparge/drain makes me go crazy.

Eh? I don't see how. A mash tun that has a larger surface area would have a shallower bed, and likely have a larger dead space volume, resulting in lower efficiency. Why would the height of the grain bed matter? You have posted that it does, but not provided reasoning as to why. I think other...

I am not sure, but I have a bunch of excess hops and am making a beer I have named "2-Pound Clown". IIPA with 2 pounds of hops. In a month or so I'll have an idea if it is any good.

I would only use it for stuff you boil, unless cleaning gives you repeat negative tests. Some groundwater is under the influence of surface water and can have animal/human fecal contamination.

Do you know the SRM of the extracts?

Sometimes I think Facebook enthusiasts think: But if you don't like my post, then other people won't see that you liked it, and they won't think I'm awesome and popular. Well, actually, I won't think I'm awesome and popular because of all the likes/attention I am not getting.... Must post...

Your post looks kinda like: I don't care about likes. Should people care about likes? I care about likes.

You can also use the kegging equipment like a bottling bucket by adding the sugar, racking the beer on top, then hooking up to low pressure and filling bottles. Added benefit of being able to purge the bottling vessel (keg) with CO2 before transferring. Add a beer gun = bottling made easy. Then...

I use Brewer's Friend for calculating yeast starter volumes and it has served me well. I come up with around 1.5 L starter, gravity around 1.04, assuming 75% viability. FermCap recommended at 1.5L in a 2L flask.

For the siphon situation, all you would need to know is the starting delta between the liquid surface and the highest point in the serving line. If that is one-foot, you need around 0.5 psi to push the beer to the high-point and start the siphon. Headspace doesn't matter for his specific...

I will assume the dip tube to tap is 1-foot. Pressure equivalent to 12-inches of water head (~0.4-0.5 psi) is required to get the last bit out. If tap is higher, take that pressure and multiply by the number of feet from dip tube to tap. What are you after with this question?

I only use the place for yeast and other small items, but Brew Lab KC does this and they have a pretty legit setup. You can see from their website pics how much money that put into their process: Brew Lab KC I have heard they do a good job there, but too expensive for me since I have...

Is the wort pickup really just for filling the 200 spots? How do they know if you actually used the wort?

Primary fermenters typically have a decent amount of particulate attached to the side walls that sloughs and begins settling downwards while you rack, some being transferred to the secondary. Once you rack to the secondary, most of the particulate that was collected settles to the bottom, and...

I reject your premise that everyone is only into IPAs. My friends and coworkers are into all types of beer. Maybe find some other people to brew/drink with?

My method of use is similar, but not identical. No issues losing considerable carbonation: 1. Carbonate beers to upper limit per style guidelines. 2. Sanitize beer gun and bottles (I do not chill bottles). 3. Depressurize keg, hook up low pressure gas line to 2-3 psi. 4. Purge beer gun...