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When I first started BIAB brewing, I used an online calculator called Priceless BIAB Brew in a Bag Calculator. It was simple enough and pretty accurate at predicting volume, temperature, and gravity. When I started designing my own recipes, I moved to Beersmith, which can do all that and more...

https://www.williamsbrewing.com/Home-Brewing-Equipment/Kegging-Equipment/KegLand-Oxebar-Kegs/Oxebar-Keg-Starter-Set This and a used CO2 tank from FB Marketplace or Craigslist.

You could try using amylase enzyme. I've never used it myself, but I would give it a shot if I mashed too hot.

@VikeMan and @Bramling Cross got me thinking about my hot side and I'm starting to lean towards PH. I have a PH meter but I don't use it very often. Also, I target 5.2 for all my beers and was reading that you could go higher for darker beers.

Thanks for the added info. I'll scrutinize my hot side and see if I can dial in my numbers a bit. My next brew is going to be an Irish Red, so it's a good test. I'm using the AHA recipe British Mats.

Glad to have you join us. I look forward to reading more about your experiences brewing in Tiawan.

Beersmith reports the mash volume. Click on the Mash tab and look at what the mash volumes are. If over 10 gallons, cut back on the strike water and add a sparge.

I'm asking because this is something I see in all my finished beers. For most pale ales and IPAs, it's not a problem for me. When trying to brew darker beer styles, I might come in lighter that the BJCP guidelines.

If you entered your deadspace into Beersmith properly, wouldn't all things be equal if both scenarios had the same efficiency?

I use Beersmith web to design all my recipes and have everything dialed in pretty well. Most estimated values are pretty accurate including Mash temp and SG/FG. The one estimate that hasn't been accurate is color. All my beers are lighter than estimated and I'm not sure why. Is there...

I just brewed a 1.090 Belgian strong ale in my 10 gallon kettle, full volume with 8 1/4 gallons of water and 18#'s of grain. It was right at the top, but it remained in the pot.

I find that the valves get tight over time and eventually need replacement. New ones open and close easily and come apart for cleaning pretty easy too.

Put the handle on a solid surface with the body hanging over the edge. Then push pull down on the body of the spigot and they'll come apart. Simple.

You're not kidding! 😭

Haha, I still haven't mastered that technique. My daughter is taking audio tech in college next fall. I'll have her teach me.

One last shout out to Bracc. A couple of years ago he convinced me to purchase a postal scale for my CO2 tank. After receiving the scale, I realized I had a very small leak, probably a hundredth of an ounce per day. Not bad, but it pained me every day seeing the scale tic down. So I replaced...

Wilser bags are custom made and he's made a lot of them. I'm guessing the size he sent you works for 99% of his customers. You're obviously brewing high gravity brews so your specific needs are different. Order a new bag and ask him to add X" to the height.

Too bad most wasabi is actually horseradish. On the bright side, maybe horseradish works too because I learned this many years ago.

You need a faucet wrench so you can take the brass nut off on the inside of the tower. Then you can pull the beer line out from the top to inspect it. I would suggest new beer lines, it's cheap and easy to do. An oetiker clamp is best to attach the new lines, but worm clamps work too. And...

1. Best ways to heat the fermenter I use a FermWrap and an Inkbird temperature controller. 2. How to handle plumbing? There's no sink in my garage... am I looking at waste and runoff going into a bucket? I brew in my garage without plumbing and just pull the garden hose to the garage door...