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Mine used to do that, even though I was buying enough to brew 15 gallons every 2 weeks. They all knew me by first name, but no discount if I didn't claim to be a club member. I have found that the prices in many store fronts is the same as eBay + shipping. I don't buy from ones that are...

I'll say it: the OP asked about English vs. Metric, not ASE vs. Metric. Metric is not the same as English.

No. That is what is meant by the "output side". After the heating element; not after the pump before the heating element. It can't be throttled if there is nothing in it?

I know I have seen SS hose bibs. Perhaps an additional reason for nonpotable is the rubber gasket.

My pt100 has the same problem. I did nothing to it. I ended up tying the cable in a loop to the probe, it seems to be a bad connection somewhere inside the spring/relief on mine.

I use my eyes and ears. A correct crush of the grains also helps. Too much fine flour clogs the bed up.

Depends on what you are trying to accomplish.

The ads are fairly clear, only the base is stainless. Or maybe not real clear, kind of.

You think 12 VDC would make problems? I can do 5 VDC if maybe that would be less troubles. I'm using an old XT regulated power supply, so got both. I thought the low voltage and next to no resistance would not stress the contacts. The SSR driver is an optocoupler right?

I found the easiest way is with a Dremel tool with a drywall cutter, The one that looks like an odd drill bit. It's best to have a template because freehand can really go wild.

Just letting the relay send 12vDC to the SSR. It's the HLT, so it does not click very often. Now you got me thinking though..... The HLT has a 240V 20A element in it now, so I couldn't use the 10A relay. I am thinking about changing to a 120V element. The HLT is not used in a HERMES setup...

I think PBW or BKF is the culprit, sometimes some of will get left behind. Like some water evaporates above the water line leaving crystals behind, or some chemical is reacting with the metal. I've had a sort of "soda" (lime not Coke/Pepsi) kind of taste before from various cleaners...

You've flashed 6 of these particular units, or you've flashed 6 stc-1000 units? The seller does not represent these as stc-1000, MH1210F is the designation on the documentation. These units are basic t-stats. Mine works well for my 15 gallon electric HLT with an SSR. No overshoot and...

I have now learned my new thing for the day! Thank you.

Exactly how would a GFCI work if there is no ground? If your wiring is of the armored variety (metal cased) and your box is metal the casing is grounded.

I have one. It is NOT an STC-1000. But it works for what I want it to do.

I will bet that the spent grain had big lumps of wet dough in it that never got exposed to the enzymes or the sparge. That is the reason you add dry ingredients to hot water rather than the other way around. Done that!

I use a home made bottom tap. I used the cut out piece for a screen by drilling lots of 1/8 inch holes in it. Been using it for about 15 years.

So call me a barbarian. Why make a starter from a (fresh) smack pack for 5 gallons of wort? I normally split one (fresh) smack pack between two 5 gallon carboys with respectable resulting beer. But then, I'm not selling my beer.

You only run into problems with bleach when the H2O evaporates; it leaves a rather nasty deposit behind of (insert the chemical name for bleach crystals here). I found this out when I stored a couple of air lock in bleach water, then forgot about it for a couple of months.