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Sigh. Amateur oversight. Much obliged.

Anyone? Bueller?

I know there are a range of thoughts on this, so I'm just looking for some insight/discussion on how folk's approach this. I'm 10 days into my first fermentation in my new SOF chiller. I had been using ice in a water bath but wanted something more precise/controllable (and I needed a project)...

I know it's not the political forum, but rest assured that BMC agrees with that statement wholeheartedly.

I'm really troubled by a lot of the logic in this thread. I understand the skepticism, but so many comments want to disown BBC/SA because they've grown or because they are seeking specific political change. One thing I don't think has been mentioned is the three-tiered liquor distribution...

+1. I'd be amazed if you got through a mash without destroying the stone.

???? Either that was a type-o, or there's a problem with how you're reading your hydrometer. FG will be a lower number than OG. 1.031 wort will not turn in to 1.047 beer. EDIT: Sorry, I just realized you're talking about pre-boil gravity vs. OG, not OG and FG.

I wonder if this has ever happened on HBT before... we have the same name for our "breweries". I got this label goin a few months ago...

Great thread, everyone! For those who heat their first runnings right away: any concerns/experiences with caramelization due to heating such a small volume?

That makes sense. I was only thinking of it in terms of efficiency, but I definitely see the utility in making sure I hit my target OG. Thanks guys.

Is there any point to taking pre-boil gravity readings if I'm using BeerTools to calculate my efficiency? I have always taken one, but the software calculates efficiency based on OG. Should I even bother with it anymore?

If you want to get really accurate...measure 1 gal with a measuring cup as you add it to your gallon jug and draw a fill line. I've found most gallon jugs to be closer to 1.25 if filled all the way up.

+1 on going a few degrees over with the strike water. Soooo much easier to stir it for an extra few minutes to drop it down a degree or two than try to bring up a mash that is under target...

I'm no expert, but I want to join the call for a detailed write up of your process. This is too strange -- we definitely need to know more specifics. And just to be clear, when you say: do you mean that your first runnings came out clear and colorless? Did you only notice something was...

Rough luck, Raven. Should've seen it through. I have a pale ale I'm getting ready to bottle that got about 6-7oz. of starsan up the blowoff last week during a particularly cold night. My plan is to do exactly the sort of "highly sophisticated" testing jdinger mentioned. I'll report back....

It's probably sitting on an air bubble or something of that sort. Give it a spin in the tube and maybe flick it down a few times so that any air underneath it can escape. That should help give you a steady reading.

Welcome to HBT, wordsandwich! First, take advice you get on here with a grain of salt. Everyone has their own preferences but there is no one "right" way to do things. People use all sorts of fermenters and all sorts of yeasts, and all of it is capable of making good beer. That said, I agree...

Airlocks don't always bubble. Your yeast might be going just fine. Take a hydro reading before doing anything. I'm sure Revvy's around here somewhere...

PBW is amazing for cleaning chillers.

EDIT: I didn't see what you did there. You sir, are very clever.