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No, I tried both gas and liquid on both posts. Interestingly, the liquid post had a "star" type base and was not a nut to put a wrench on.

The last one I bought from Morebeer costs $70 and was supposed to be "cleaned & rebuilt" but it was filthy and leaky. The post seals and latch seal look to be replaced but the poppet leaks. Also, to top it off, for whatever reason my ball locks won't fit over the posts. If anyone knows why...

I have bought used kegs and I have bought new kegs. My advice would be never buy used.

Because of Omega Lutra OYL071. Pretty incredible stuff that is happy anywhere between 68-95 degrees. Even makes decent pseudo-lager at these temps.

Wow! Can't argue with a scientific academic study. No need to to rehydrate or oxygenate when using dry yeast, just sprinkle it on top of wort. I admit, I skipped ahead quite a bit, but no mention of using a starter. I wonder what their research says about that?

I brew this often and it always turns-out great. I always oxygenate 2 minutes at .5 ppm, sprinkle in 2 packages of US-05, and seem to have very happy and robust yeast in about 12 hours. OG is usually 1.076, with FG 1.010.

I have the same problem. I have found that pushing down on the top of the lid a couple times and then using a strap wrench is the only way I can get it off. Sometimes, even need a second person to hold Fermonster while I use the strap wrench.

For my taste anyway, I find that the Octoberfest made by Great Lakes Brewing more closely resembles the Octoberfest beers that I have had in Munich. Thoughts?

Looks great!

I don't think you should hear hissing noise. I have tested mine up to 12 psi also, it holds well. Since you apparently placed the posts fairly close together (like I did) there were some slight ridges on the bottom of the lid that I had to smooth-out in order to get "flat" seal. Are these...

I used 6.3 gallons of strike water and 9.75 lbs of grain. I was not recirculating because my I was doing a multi-step infusion and started it at 122 degrees. I'm not sure if it was the right thing to do or not? but I was not going to start recirculating until I ramped up to 148 degrees for the...

I suffered a brew day disaster today. I milled my grains, mashed-in at 122 degrees for a multi-step mash schedule and after 20 minutes at 122, I raised the Foundry temperature to 149 degrees. The system got the mash up to 131 degrees and then abruptly shut-off with an E3 error. Having no idea...

I reuse my 6 gallons of Star San over a couple months or several brews. I use it in my keg when I push Star San out when I do closed transfers. Between uses, I store it sealed in a 5 gallon bucket that I previously used for fermenting. Prepping for my next brew, when I removed this bucket lid...

Do you transfer to another keg after fermentation? Rather than a shortened dip tube, wouldn't a floating dip tube work?

It pisses me off that Taprite would use that stupid hex screw, o-ring design! Why re-invent the wheel when the old design that used the flat nylon washer worked fine? I have had nothing but problems with the new design and I can't get a good seal by replacing it with the tried and true nylon...

I don't think I have a problem with efficiency, always hit 72-75%. So, I guess the Foundry manual's suggested method of just pouring 1 gallon of 175 degree water over diffusor plate at the top malt pipe is best method for this type of system? The reason I ask is that a time or two, my beer has...

How do folks sparge that have the electric brew systems such as the Foundry, which calls for a gallon of water to be poured over grains after raising basket at the end of the mash? I always follow this method and have predicted efficiency, but wonder if it's necessary?

No, I always cold crash and have never had a problem. I have even done a couple Pliny clones with about 7 ounces dry hopped. I regularly purge the keg and set the psi into the fermonster to about 6 lbs.

Great! Exactly what I hit! Thanks!

Oops, forgot, yes, 1 lb corn sugar. Thanks!