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This is exactly what I do. I lift the malt pipe at the 20 and 40 minute mark of the mash. This improved the efficiency and flavor of my beer significantly.

Knowing this is an ignorant question, I have to ask, what does "FW" mean?

Not a lot of effort but that stuff ain't cheap!

Charging lithium batteries in your home or garage is a much much much bigger problem.

Certainly understand what you are saying! Yes, like everything else, they have indeed gone up. When I bought mine in 2012, I paid around $1200. I truly believe it will last a lifetime. We use it for everything from 12 hour smoking, to a 600 degree pizza oven, to direct grilling of steaks. The...

IMHO, you can't beat the Yoder Pellet Smoker, which is a tank of a grill made right here in the USA with 1/8" steel. After years with a Big Green Egg, and a short stint with a Traeger that I quickly returned to Costco when I saw how cheaply made it was, how thin the metal was, and consequently...

I have brewed an excellent 8.5% abv Pliny clone several times, single dry hopped, left it in primary 3 weeks and never racked to a secondary. I just cold crash before a pressure transfer from Fermonster to keg.

I have found that the Cereal Killer works best by starting it with the drill BEFORE pouring in the grains as it is already turning at proper rpm's.

I put a large washer in a small zip lock bag with the hops in a muslin bag and put the strong magnet on the outside of the Fermonster. Works great.

That is odd. I sealed mine with silicone top, bottom and sides over a year ago and have never had that problem.

I use a Thermapen, which I paid about $100 for, and I have found it to be highly accurate. Prior to mash-in, the Thermapen reading from the strike water in the malt pipe, and the Foundry display temperature are exactly the same. The malt pipe has solid walls except for the bottom several inches...

Indeed! The Anvil folks and their proxies seem to be ignoring the issue. That said, don't get me wrong, I do like the Foundry and would buy another if I had it to do all over again since I seemed to have found a work-around by adjusting the set temp 6 degrees higher and lifting the malt pipe...

With regards to the Anvil Foundry, I'm not exactly sure that makes sense when you consider that the wort that is recirculated to the top of the grain bed is coming from the dip tube that sits under the malt pipe at the very edge of the burner and the temperature sensor sits outside the malt pipe...

I have a Foundry 10.5 that I run on 240 volts, and once I have learned about "some quirks," I like it pretty well. The main quirk is that the mash temp IS NOT what is displayed on the screen, but rather it is a consistent 6 degrees lower. The work around is to (1) lift the basket out several...

Yes, I could see that easily happen. I don't use a bag.

I have found that, with all other things being equal, the small batch adaptor makes a huge difference in mash efficiency.

In the past, when cold crashing, I have just been putting the Co2 tank and gauge in the fridge with the carboy so I could put a few lbs of Co2 on the carboy as it contracts. Since putting the tank and gauge in the fridge is not a good practice for a variety of reasons, I was thinking of running...

Like taking a bath with your socks on, imho.

Yes, I'm using the basket, but will try the bag. Would you please post or pm me the exact bag and (I assume clips) that work well with the Foundry. I guess it needs to be positioned several inches above heating element? I have no issue with efficiency now as I'm always in the 75-80% range when...

So, I've been struggling to figure out mash temperature control for the last several brews. I bought a Thermapen One because I was questioning weather to believe the Foundry displayed temp or that of a cheap $15 temp probe stuck into the mash bed before and after stirring the mash. This cheap...