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I've heard that WLP099 gives off a sulfur smell, especially when fermenting at higher temps

Sour beers = lactic acid!

Kind of looks like hydrated yeast to me, however this is secondary so I don't know. It's not in contact with the beer and the beer has been in the secondary for awhile so I would just let it go. Bottle it and test it out, or try it flat before you proceed. I'm sure it will be fine.

I see the process as being logarithmic. Just as in bacterial growth, the process starts to increase dramatically until slowing down as the sugars in solution begin to dwindle. Eventually, the lack of nutrients and the increase of alcohol cause the yeast to become inactive and flocculate. ABV is...

That sounds right for an active fermentation. However, just because you don't see any activity doesn't mean the yeast aren't still working. Next time, do not add anything else to the primary as this can change the outcome of your wine or introduce infection. Just let it run its time and see how...

I'm serious when it comes to the recipe and sanitization. I shy away from the water chemistry because, although I love science, sometimes it's better to not know. Either way, there is no better hobby/passion.

This happened with my stout too! It's always a surprise. I'm sure you're going to like it, cheers!

Steel is going to last longer. Also, I second not using the lobster pot. It might just be personal preference, but I like to use a pot just for brewing. It helps me eliminate reasons in case something doesn't taste right.

The difference should only be a matter of a few degrees and should give you an accurate enough reading. You shouldn't have to worry about denaturing.

If you're following a recipe I would stick to that. If you move it to a secondary or bottle it, it's going to fall eventually.

I brew 5 gallon and 1 gallon batches. I enjoy both as the experience is different. 1 gallon batches are a little tricky. There is more evaporation and less space in the fermentor if using a one gallon fermentor. If you enjoy brewing, the different between 1 gallon and 5 gallons for your troubles...

Let them go, if this is secondary there shouldn't be any activity you can see but they are still working. That head space looks fine.

That looks fine. The krausen falls after active fermentation and the rest of the hop and yeast solids float around. Eventually they will fall to the bottom. Don't worry, just keep it covered and let the yeast clean up. In another week or two, you will be good to go!

NB has a very popular kit called Dead Ringer IPA. It's pretty basic and can be brewed in both 5gal and 1 gal batches. From Midwest, I'd go with the Fuggles IPA.

There are many wheat beers that do not use fruit additions. I'd brew it straight and see the result!

I'd let it sit for a few weeks before. Also kolschs can be ale'd or lagered, that shouldn't be a problem.

Zip ties shouldn't be permanent in this case. I'd take em off. Besides, you want as much of the tubing exposed to the wort as you can get.

I'd look at the yeast temps and determine whether or not you're in the sweet spot. If so, you're good to go! My brew spot is keeping the wort around 64 F, which is great for most ales. However, I'm fermenting a Saison that is best around 70 F, so I had to make adjustments. All beer is good at...

There are some big beers from NB which require a month in the secondary. Most of these beers are high in alcohol, such as imperial IPAs and Belgian Tripels and Dubbels.

The question of 2 gallons versus 3 would probably somewhat affect taste and the alcohol concentration. If you have the same amount of alcohol in less liquid, it's going to be a little stronger. As for any question about sanitization, it's better to be safe than sorry. Definitely use new caps for...