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if you boil, you will kill what is in it, but you won't remove any sour (or other off flavor) that has been produced

No, but I'm pretty stoked about tonight's episode! :rockin:

He was wearing the outfit in the last few minutes after he picked Clara up again and asked her a "what do you think" and then landed in modern era. And Clara gets her call.

VIBE? heck they practically threw it in our faces when he went "the Marie Antionette sister ship of the Madame de Pompadour... I'm missing something what am I missing.. moving on"

You have to sanatize the fruit somehow - boiling is one way of doing it. Also it has to go in before bottling (primary, late primary, secondary, etc) unless you pasturize after bottling, like right after. They yeast will eat the fruit sugar and cause bottle bombs.

I'm in. Thanks.

Boiling doesn't sterilize, it at best sanatizes (something about how much bacteria is left afterwards.) Before pressure sterlization (auto-claves) they had to boil 3 time - basically boil, let cool and boil again. The process is called Tyndallization (irrc). So say you have a good poil and...

I'm in

That is a lot of head space in that 3rd pricture for having racked 3 times. BTW, I've personally left vints on the cake for over a year with no off flavors from autolysis. ... Wines are not brewed, they are vinted. Where most of the brewing lingo comes from Germany, most of the winemaking...

I'm in, and I didn't see... shipping included?

Yes you can if you have a wort chiller. Most extract instructions go something like this, boil 2 gallons or so and at the end, add 2 gallons or so to cool and bring it up to 5 gallons total. Now with a wort chiller, you can boil it all. It generally gets better flavor from the hops. Anyhow...

OP. You are correct, every fermenter has some draw back. The "this v that" sticky covers them pretty well. At some point the brewer has to decide what is best for him and use that.

pi? e? e^(i*pi)? people accuse me of being irrational

oh and next time, put the recovery magnet on it before you pitch, that keeps it in your starter vessel and you can fish it out from there

unless you need a stir bar for another batch leave it. You don't need to get it out of the beer. It is self contained and ok to leave. Just put a magnet on it after you rack/bottle.

OP - a 'dry' or finish point for most wines/ciders/meads is somewhere between .990 and .999. Ok technically dry goes a little higher, but due to there being no non fermentable mass, you get close to 100% attenuation if you don't ABV staturate the yeast - that is get above the tolerance of the...

your fine. I've gone longer in a secondary. Part of the question is style of beer, but then that gets to a 'higher ABV means longer storage time' regardless of container. I sometime primary longer than 2 months - mostly out of laziness.

this can be done. in the Joy of Homebrewing thre is a recipe for a 'quarter Bock' where Charlee P does just this, well he makes a double bock at 1 gallon, and then dilutes to 1/4 strength with the goal being a light beer. Understanding that a lot of the flavors of beer come from yeast and...

I don't think you can break even. The most obvious - ingredients. Sure I can break even or get ahead. Ok now include equipment, and energy cost (elect or propane) and lastly that element that is impossible to over come - TIME. Never ever will I get ahead, unless I start making something to...

I would expect that you have pretty much exhausted the yeast from the initial pitch. I would be concerned with only a 65-66% attenuation (typical is usually 75% - hence your 1.030 expectation). Concerned enough to let it ride and not add more yeast to the bottles. If after 2 months...