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Yeah there are some good deals online. I'd prefer smaller actually but the 1.75 and 2.5g kegs are just as expensive as the 5g.

I have some quite stale Cascade hops that have an aroma I find quite unpleasant. It coincidentally tastes overwhelming like an IPA I purchased recently which I ended up pouring down the drain. Both smelled botanical, woody, and pine-sol like. Not pleasant walk through the woods, more like...

On the subject of bitterness, I was drinking a NEIPA that I wished had more “assertiveness” for lack of a better word. I know pillowy softness and crushability are hallmarks of the style but I personally found this beer lacking. Maybe it was bitterness or possibly body. Has anyone else...

Cost mostly. If I could get plastic kegs for $20 a pop, I would stock up.

I’m curious why the 1% special B not the 10% Crystal 40 - isn’t that more typical? I do like that old school Cs hopping schedule.

I too pine (pun intended) for the days of the West Coast IPA. If you perfect a recipe, please share. While I’ve attempted the style numerous times, my hop management and oxygen minimizing techniques have kept me from getting anywhere close, so I can’t comment on which recipe is best.

Has anyone used a plastic keg (like pertainer) for homebrew? With the popularity of plastic fermenters, even those that can take pressure, has anyone used these as a serving keg for weight/cost purposes? 20 liter petainerKeg Hybrid | BeverageFactory.com

Great article. Well worth the read. Fascinatingly complex subject. Couple that with studies that show that concentration can also effect quality of aroma (herbal/tea overpowering citrus at very high concentrations). Impact of static dry-hopping rate on the sensory and analytical profiles of beer

Brewed something similar to this and transferred the spunding beer to a CO2 purged dry hop keg to naturally carbonate (would have used the fermentation CO2 to purge if I had the foresight). Shout out to @Rainy @Dgallo and @Braufessor, and the rest of you for all the tips, especially on...

The Cascade was batch 53131.

Related: bought the Homebrewers Outpost Cloudburst IPA all grain kit for a heavily discounted price on Amazon. The hops were trash. Package was still sealed but they had completely dried out. I’m certain these sat in a warm warehouse for months. Not worth it in my opinion.

So if you added 20% flaked oats and high chloride ratio to a WCIPA recipe, would you end up with NEIPA mouthfeel?

I’m really fascinated by what causes the difference between West Coast and New England IPAs. Aroma: Dank/pine v. Juicy/Fruity Appearance: Clear v. Orange juice Taste: Assertive bitterness v. Pillowy soft mouthfeel Other than bittering hops, the hop schedules are similar (NE maybe heavier dry...

Check the bottom of the can.

Any good deals on Amazon for homebrew stuff? Got a gift card.

Tossed in 5(!) lbs of mixed berries into my 2.5 gallon batch this afternoon. 2 hours later fruit purée is gushing out of the airlock. I don’t recall my last go at this recipe resulting in such an aggressive fermentation.

@Northern_Brewer thanks for the explanation. I’ve also wondered how long it takes yeast to evolve. Like for example, could a homebrewer keep top cropping and repitching yeast enough times for it to evolve to express different characteristics? Are there any sciency articles on that?

Assuming a 30 ft tall fermenter full of wort, the pressure at the bottom will be about 13 psi higher than the pressure at the top. Whereas if your fermenter is 3 ft tall, the pressure at the bottom is only 1.3 psi higher.

Seems like a lot of you are using your spindijg valve to carbonate in the fermenter and then transfer the carbonated beer to the keg. Can anyone explain why? I thought the typical process was to ferment under atmospheric pressure, then transfer the beer with a few gravity points to go into the...

Request for someone to explain why other yeasts can’t be dried in the oven/dehydrator at home like kveik can. What I’ve read is kveik is used to it and other yeasts aren’t. Can anyone elaborate on why?