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So I am now wondering if I can use a 20A250V L6-20P with 12/3 wire for a 4500w element. Under ideal circumstance the math says 18A but I am sure my house not putting out 240 exactly so is 20A cutting it too close?

Yeah I was going to try to use the connectors, because 30A connectors aren't cheap. Though neither is wire rated for 30A so I guess if the only thing I was able to salvage was the wire it would be better than nothing.

Well the more I look at these the less I think they are going to do the trick. They have 4 conductors which is really one to many for an element. I was really looking for some L6-30s which I think would be perfect. I may have to hold out.

First of all I have to thank CodeRage for this thread and information in some of the other threads floatign around. I am not sur if this is the best thread to ask this question in or not, but I figured it was better here than in a new one. Anyhow I have been trying find unique ways to save some...

Hey Pol are those ebay SSRs like these? If so how was the shipping on them? I would really prefer not to wait 30 days for them, but this seems like a great deal.

+1 on the Auber PID and Ebay SSR being a better deal than the Ebay PIDs with manual mode. Oh well...At least I didn't pull the trigger on one of the one without manual mode. Thinking I might go brewtroller or bcs-460 so I can eventually control pumps and valves with it.

I have seen this discussed before and I think the basic reasoning why this wouldn't work is that above 212 the liquid becomes a gas. So the PID will always keep the element on trying to reach 213 and just keep boiling harder and harder. Then if you set it to 212 it will hit boiling then shut off...

Yeah that was my concern...I guess the Auber ones are probably the cheapest with manual mode, but by the time I buy 2 of those it is almost worth going the extra mile for one of the BCS-460s.

I am wondering if anyone has used this PID to control a 4500W240v element. It looks like this would do the trick and the whole setup is cheaper than the auber pid.

West Chester checking in here... I wsuggest Artisan Homebrew in Downingtown for anyone who lives in my direction. This is a new store that was much needed in the Chester County area.

I have the ebay gfci cord above for a project I started a while back. I am not yet using it, but it is built quite well and expect it will be exactly what I need for a 30A setup.

I agree, that is a great looking krausen

2189 + 4 Gallons of McLovin American Stout (Should habve been 5 but over boiled) :( = 2193

Boiling my American Stout in the philly snow as we speak!

Oh and good luck to you on your entries!:mug:

I dropped mine at my local homebrew shop and they were not putting them in a fridge, but the room they used to store them had the heat off and was probably around 40F. I am not sure if this is something that they do at Keystone after pickup.

+1 for Robust Porter. Mostly because I entered an American Stout.

I would think replacing silicone o-rings with new silicone would be a better option. Not that the Buna-N ones wont work but the silicone ones are rated to 400F and are only a few bucks. Just a little bit of extra assurance goes a long way.

I have the ones that bargain fittings sells, but they work fine in my boil kettle. I think the o-rings are rated for 400* so boils temps should be fine.

I won't drink them all.