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Here's a great deal on Tygon B-44-4X tubing. A 50ft roll for $27 shipped, 54 cents a foot, less than half of what usplastic.com charges shipped. Just bought a roll, 8 left. http://cgi.ebay.com/TYGON-B-44-4X-AAA00012-3-16-ID-5-16-OD-Tubing-50-/260597230228

I use .035 and get 80%-85% eff. regularly. Mine came a little crooked, .039 at one end, .036 at the other.

http://www.kegglebrewing.com/Four-Pack-of-5-Gallon-Ball-Lock-Kegs-with-Loose-Top-or-Bottom_p_183.html

Its fine. I get this often, and as you said, all you need to do is spin the bottles and let them sit for a day or so, and it will all just fall to the bottom. Just a little yeast sediment, nothing bad.

Depending on how that regulator is put together, you may be able to replace the valve for pretty cheap. There is an assortment of different valves available here that might work for you http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20&products_id=852

I've done somewhere around 4.3 to 4.5 without problems in regular 12oz longnecks

We did this with a 1/2 barrel last summer and kept it cool for almost 2 days while camping in ~75 degree weather

Midwest also has some colored caps individually, though no orange. http://www.midwestsupplies.com/homebrewing-equipment/bottling/caps-cappers.html

My favorite bottles to use are the Jolly Pumpkin 750mL. They're shaped like most belgian bottles that use a cork & wire, but the top fits a normal crown cap instead. These bottles cap with fine with a slightly modified wing capper, no need for a bench capper. The bottles are super heavy duty...

If I'm in a hurry and shaking my keg to carb, I chill it first, then put about 30psi on it, shake the crap out of it, and repeat 2 to 3 more times. Never have foam problems here. I could see it being way overcarbed if he just chilled it and set it at 25 psi to carb without shaking though.

Yeah, wyeast 3068/wlp300 is a really stinky strain. It produced a ton of sulfur when I used it, and even at bottling it still smelled a bit off. A few weeks in the bottles took care of it though. I wouldn't worry.

I'm not sure if the same applies to their glass as the plastic, but the plastic bottles are much lighter and not designed to hold pressure. Make sure the glass is heavy/thick enough to hold pressure before you use them.

Wash your glasses by hand (with an unscented soap if you're really worried), rinse them thoroughly, and let them air dry.

The "Can I Mash It?" calculator on this page http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml will tell you how much grain you can squeeze into your tun and at what water ratio.

Digging up an old thread here... I am thinking about building a device like sparky's, but just out of curiosity, is it safe to boil a nylon strainer bag for 60+ minutes? I looked around online but couldn't find anything about boiling nylon and food safety.

It is pretty good now, I was just hoping for it to be a bit drier.

Do you think its worth racking it onto another yeast cake before trying the Amylase?

I measured towards the middle, and I will be kegging this one. It will probably be gone within a day or two since I am bringing it to my friend's place for a party, so it doesn't have to be perfect. It would be nice if it were drier though, to make it a bit more sessionable/less chewy.

I've got a digital thermometer that has a pretty long probe on it, has always been accurate in the past, so i don't think that is the issue (hopefully). I thought about amalyse enzyme, but I have read that it takes a long time to dry a beer out with that. I was hoping to have this ready to...

Well, it finally happened to me. Brewed a dry stout a few weeks ago, pitched Wyeast Irish Ale from a starter, all appeared to be going fine. Had what looked like a nice fast fermentation at about 65 degrees, however after two weeks I checked the gravity and it was at 1.020. I roused up the...