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Doesn't matter at all. Just make sure it can handle whatever pressure you're putting through it.

Saisons actually started out as light 4 to 5% beers for farmers, its been more recently that they've exploded into 7%+ versions. A "light" saison would actually be more true to style than most things on the market these days.

You shouldn't make a starter with dry yeast. Just rehydrate it, and if you're really worried, put a pinch of sugar or malt extract in with your rehydration water to proof it.

Are you sure it started at 1.100? That's a pretty big beer, and for it to ferment down to 1.000 is pretty incredible.

I use one of these if heat is necessary... http://www.petco.com/product/6353/Zoo-Med-Repti-Therm-UTH-Under-Tank-Heaters.aspx It keeps the carboy about 10 degrees warmer than ambient usually.

Not that I have seen, but then again it isn't hard to come close to any hefe. Like i said, the classic recipe is the 50/50 wheat/pils ratio, or 60/40, or something very similar. Outside of that, its all in how you hop the beer and fermentation temperature. Shoot for an OG around 1.050, ~10 to...

Could be an old dairy vessel, especially coming from Wisconsin. I have a very old ball lock keg that was used for dairy, looks a bit different from most kegs i've seen.

You could, but your final product is going to not taste anything like a hefeweizen. It will most likely also be too dry and boozy. Find some sort of ale yeast, anything really. If you have no choice but to wait, I would.

Erdinger is very light on the banana clove. Its probably one of the cleanest tasting hefeweizens. I would not recommend using wlp300/wyeast 3068 for a good clone. I think Wyeast 3056 would be a better choice for an Erdinger clone. 3056 has a very subdued banana/clove phenol characteristic...

Add them at flame out. Do not boil the spices. Let them steep for 5 minutes and then begin chilling.

For bottling, I've used corn and cane sugar and I really can't detect a difference between the two. I think in larger amounts added before fermentation, there may be some slight difference in flavor between corn and cane. Go for the regular old cane sugar if that's what you have.

+1 for the drill. I only use the handle when my drill battery dies. As long as it works, I really don't care what the handle looks like. You paid $125 for the mill, the handle is just some wooden doweling and aluminum.

Anybody use this? Curious to hear if it is really as mild as they say. http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Products/SeasonalMalts.htm#Oct

I was browsing kegconnection.com and came across a new Perlick model that I have not heard of before. Google gave no information about it and there is no info on the perlick site either. Its $21.95, much cheaper than any other Perlick model, chrome plated. Does anyone have any info about this...

These links may be of interest to you... http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=38&products_id=1544 http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=38&products_id=842

Nothing wrong with dry yeast. Its not going anywhere. I've even used the supposed "bad" batch of nottingham with no ill effects.

I agree completely. I also like the way the glass fits in my hand. Its easier to swirl beer around and warm it in your hand if it is too cold.

This is probably the best you'll find online, short of an ebay deal for a creamer. http://www.brewmasterswarehouse.com/product/0102213/perlick-forward-seal-creamer-575ss For a regular non-creamer Perlick, farmhouse brewing is the way to go...

Besides goblet or chalice, is there a proper name for a glass like this? They're about 12oz. All I've been able to find is that most of them were made by the Federal Glass Company in the 70s. Libbey had a similar design in the 70s with square corners instead of round. I really like them as...

There usually are some little dips where the ribs run, but its only a very slight indentation, definitely not a sanitation or structural problem.