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The only reason you should steep longer is if your grains are not crushed, and even then you shouldn't need to go too much longer to get the same effect.

With that much roast and chocolate, it is definitely going to be more towards a porter or stout in flavor than a brown.

The only input I have is that I know for a fact that one 5500w element WILL bring 40 to 45 gallons of liquid to a boil, though it takes about 45 minutes to an hour, and the boil will not be the most vigorous. Also a straight 5500w element will boil harder than an 'S' shaped one.

Cool, I actually do have some more chocolate wheat I could throw in, as well as Honey Malt, Acid Malt Carapils, Caravienne, and Melanoidian. I didn't think that those really belonged in a stout though. I will probably take the peated malt out too and save that for something else.

Trying to use up a lot of little remnants of grains I have laying around, put this together in beersmith. I guess it would qualify as an imperial stout. I think it will be ok, but I was curious to see if anyone had any input on this thing. I guess mainly I am worried about the amount of...

One of my favorite hops, and they're not that new at all. They are a tettnang hybrid. A little stronger than Tett, they have a nice bitterness and great noble flavor. A little spice. They are great in wheat beers and I like to mix them into pale ales too.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/yeast-washing-illustrated-41768/ You don't have to do all of the steps here if you plan on using the yeast the same day, but its the same idea.

They only have male barbs. This is the only place I could find that has female ss barbs in stock, unfortunately they are more expensive since they are a custom design. http://www.brewershardware.com/1-2-Threaded-Hose-Barb-TFB58F.html

This is what you should do. Both White Labs and Wyeast sell barrel pitchable packs of their yeast, but they are around $300 a pop.

:eek: That's an amazing price... I just bought a 5lb for $54...

I am a huge fan of Wyeast 1882-PC Thames Valley II Yeast. Its a private collection seasonal yeast. It is extremely flocculant and produces some great beers. I made an ESB with it last summer that was one of my best beers. Beer Styles: Ordinary and Special Bitters, ESB, Northern English...

My favorite true summer seasonal is New Glarus Dancing Man Wheat. Otherwise, I'm with you, a lot of the summer seasonals get overspiced and abuse the citrus.

Nice! I may have to pick one of these up...

Hi All, just thought I would pass this along. Beach Audio has a 35 Quart stainless stockpot on sale for $62.71 + $8 shipping (or free if you spend over $100). Use the coupon code GREG05 to get $5 off (expires April 10). $65.71 for a stainless pot of this size is a pretty good deal. This site...

It probably would've.... needless to say, this beer is long gone... almost a year ago.

Sounds good to me, I've pushed about 4 volumes into regular longnecks before without problem.

I still think that WLP300/Wyeast 3068 is going to give you too much banana and clove flavor for a true clone. Erdinger is one of the least estery/phenoly true german hefe's I have tasted. Wyeast 3056 is much more subdued and will make a better clone imo. Wyeast 3333 would be alright too...

Even regular vegetable cooking oil will do the trick for most metals, just use it liberally and you won't have a problem.

Yeah, bad yeast happens. Nottingham has had a bad run, let it be. If it doesn't rehydrate properly, don't use it. End of story.

Wheat malt has plenty of diastic power. I've used 60%+ wheat before without any conversion problems. Just make sure its wheat malt. If its unmalted, then you may run into problems. Also use lots of rice hulls if you're using that much wheat.