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I've played a bit since starting this thread a couple years ago. Just this year I brewed a 1.095sg RIS with a budd. When it was fermenting we took two mason jars and filled each one with 8oz or bourbon, 3oz of oak cubes and a vanilla bean. Once fermentation was up we tossed the entire fillings...

I brewed this a couple weeks ago. I'll be kegging this weekend. I did this beer partly to try fwh for the first time in a safe way. 6 gallon batch SG 1.040 FG 16 IBU Estimated ABV 4.1% 3.0 SRM 70% ; single infusion mash at 152 degrees* 8.5lb American Two-Row 1lb Vienna 2oz Liberty...

Ive been brewing this beer non stop every 3 batches for the last year and it has become my house beer. The grain bill has never changed and I had settled on this for hop additions: .5oz Chinook @60 .7oz Chinook @20 .7oz Chinook @10 1.1oz Chinook @ 0 2oz Chinook Dry hop I would just adjust the...

I've done an all citra beer and I really didn't enjoy it. I've personally found I only like citra as part of a dry hop blend but never on it's own. I'm not sure what happened I used to love zombie dust and other citra beers but now I don't enjoy it it, I tend to get a body odar aroma from all...

Ya I would say mash high and ferment at the cold side of 1272's recommendations. At the end of the day it will be a good wee heavy.

You'll be fine. The Scottish ale yeast is really just a low attenuating neutral ale yeast so using 1272 will just get you a little lower of a final gravity then the style would normally call for.

It's going to be all centennial in the boil like regular ruination

Sorry about that I completely forgot I used that yeast in this beer. To be honest I couldn't tell the difference between 1945 and 1028. I would stick with 1028 just because 1945 has such a strict and small temperature range which I frankly can't be bothered with. I'd say if your curious give it...

I did brew it and loved it. I've had come commercial milds and believe this recipe stands up. When I brew this again I'll be ditching the oats and black patent and going from pale chocolate to Simpsons English dark chocolate. I might even bring up the brown malt a bit.

I share the exact same system for lagers. At the point in fermentation we are raising to 60-65 degrees nothing is going to be given off by the yeast. People raise ales to the mid 70's to finish up towards the end of fermentation as well. I usually give the lagers 7-10 days at 60-65 degrees...

Usually 6 or 7 days into ferment I'll start gravity readings daily until the beer is 2/3 of final gravity. I the take the carboy out of the lager fridge and sit on my basement floor for a week at 60 degrees to finish up. This takes care of all the weird stuff given off by cold fermentation.

It's funny the things you can freak out about in brewing. Had an off brew day and had bad effecientcy while brewing my house beer which I brew every couple months. I threw a pound of dissolved sugar into cooled wort and pitched yeast to save it and have been freaking out about it ever since. I...

When brewing a beer I know I'm going to dry hop I'll brew 6 gallons and dry hop after fermentation is done. A week or so into dry hopping I'll cold crash for a few days then rack to a keg. I always get 5 gallons of clear beer int the keg and I've dry hopped with as much as 5 ounces.

Just dry hop in primary and cold crash if possible.

1.008 looks to be the final.

Lol, time will tell I sure hope it doesn't finish that low. Krausen just disappeared and some airlock activity left. I'm down to 1.010 now so it's for sure going to finish lower then 1.010.

Sorry I didn't share th grain bill. The grains used are: 6 gallons 70%EFF SG 1.042 FG 1.010-1.009 8.75lb two row .5lb crystal 60 .5 carafa 3 .25 Simpsons English dark chocolate Mash at about 151 and batch sparge. I use US-05 yeast.

Wow.

I agree I'm banking on 1.008 which is fine since when I normally make I it goes down to 1.010-1.008 all malt. Ya 1.000 is a far stretch.

That's true I might end up using sugar going forward :)