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No, that was not what im saying.. if you re-read my last post i say that whirlpooling the grains inside the basket gives dirty wort. The whirlpooling under the basket i understand move the wort to prevent scorching.. but my thought is that it shouldnt even be needed if the right element was...

Yes, i know that it have worked for you guys.. But my thought is that it is a half strange fix for a bad system design (by co brewing). They should have used lower watt density heater, and they should also not have used the basket whirlpooling. Because the scorching problem seems to happen for...

The biggest problem with scorching should be due to whirlpooling the grains inside the basket, because it gives alot of malt junk at or around the element, which makes it scorch alot easier.. but also due to not using ULWD element. I have never had problem with that, but then i have never...

I really believe channeling is not a problem whatsoever - because if it really was - then a 3-kettle system with a separate mashtun (recirculate top to bottom) would have the same problem as these systems.. because the principle is the same - with only the pump actually helping to suck the wort...

Yes, you are right - i was meaning conditioning the malt. The point of both methods is still the same, more whole husk material. Not tried my mesh sided yet (400 micron on sides + bottom), but there was some thread here on this forum where i found about it a while ago - cannot remember the...

I have now ordered another solid sided BIAB basket... but with 600 micron bottom, instead of the 400 micron which the CO-brew ones have. I have had working recirculation all the time since i started wet-milling the grains, but it haven't been as fast circulation as i have wanted - so i thought i...

I don't get why they even ship out 5500W elements for small homebrew-scale kits at 20 gallon and below. I myself have a custom made triple-phase (3x230v) element, with three heating tubes at 1600w each = 4800W total power. The total lenght of the element is 40cm inside the kettle.. So i have...

I have a 16-gallon kettle, and usually mash with about 40L (10.5gallon) water. I actually had a very slow circulation when i recently mashed with 13kg of malt... the level inside the malt-basket rised so high that it started to drain over the edge of the basket... but this was no trouble as...

I have been brewing a few more batches with my system, solid sides basket and ultimate sparge arm instead of whirlpooling. I now do get at least 75 - 80% brewhouse efficiency so i'm quite happy with that. The problem i had with recirculation got better when i started wet millig the grains - but...

Jaybird: is there any chance you possibly could get a 2" TC to 1.5" NPS adaptor just like this one? http://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=387433&stc=1&d=1486153309 If so - what could it cost? I would need one for my 1.5" NPS heating element.. I run tri-phase electric brewing...

On my system with 16-gallon kettle (15.5" diameter) and a 14.5" diameter mash basket, made by colorado brewing systems.. with 400micron bottom mesh i did brew a quite strong IPA (not DIPA) two weeks ago... I did wet condition the grains before milling, which gave big nice whole husks from the...

But the trade-off is not because it is electric - but rather that it is single kettle design. Triple kettle electric HERMS will be the best system if we are talking about efficiency, wort clarity, and running problem free... but there is the big problem of extra space, more cleaning and higher...

I have now ordered mesh-sided basket to replace the solid sided... will take quite a while before i get it, since i live in Sweden.. But anyway, i'm quite certain this will save me alot of headaches!

I will probably release the gerber-files, but that will take some time before i do.. This because i will solder a board and send to vito, and finish two boards too myself for testing both BrewManiacEx and BrewPiLess, so we can for shure know everything works as expected.

ajw85: Sorry, but as i have worked quite close with pocketmon when i have made this board, i don't think it's right trying to earn money on his project. At most i think i'll part with the six spare boards i already have at home. Otherwise i think vito (pocketmon) is still selling some...

But if you run whirlpooling and at the same time using manifold above, they will kind of work against each other? The manifold is for getting a "filter-grain bed" while beneath it you will whirlpooling the grains.. which makes them move.. At least in my head it sounds like the whirlpool will...

Auber also sells onewire sensors, search for ds18b20 on their site, and you shall find them. :-)

02RedWS6TA: When you have changed to Chugger Max - are you thinking that the stronger pump will help with a better whirlpool - or will you be using the SSBrewTech Manifold with it? Why i'm asking, is because most people seem to throttle the normal chugger down - but that pump is at the same time...

Are we talking about C2/C3? If so i have just put them 220uF on my build with "beta" boards... their value is not really critical.. but larger is pretty much always better. Their pin spacing is only 2.5mm though, so you cannot really fit any very large caps there. By the way, kind of the reason...

froot: They are all connected to what they should... R10/R13 is between ground (red thick trace) and the base of the corresponding transistors (Q3/Q2).. C6 is between A0 button and ground... and these small caps is not needed for buttons, but for rotary encoder. I added the caps, because this...