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No need to provide me with board, i already have 7pcs laying around, i'm just happy somebody is using the board :-) Let me know if you wonder anything about components and/or building the boards, since there are a few different setup possibilities.

It is very easy to download, this is a regular link to a google drive directory. When you enter the link, you'll see files/folder in the center - but at the top above (still inside browser window) there is a "menu bar". And far to the right on the menu bar, there are a few "buttons" or whatever...

I don't quite get what you are asking about here? I haven't actually tried, never felt interesting for me. I use the controller mainly for its original purpose just a "plain brew controller" but wanted the ability of wifi-setup and to see temp, time etc from another room. Plus the simplicity...

I forgot earlier to post my PCB design here.. It works with both BrewPiLess and BrewManiacEx out of the box.. but there are a few options on how to power it, and if you want external LCD or what. The files for the board can be downloaded here -...

Oh, and by the way - anybody who uses my PCB design, please let me know if there is any bugs you have found. Everything works fine for me - but i may have missed something, since there is a possibility of different setups.

If possible use a current/watt meter to check how much power you have when everything is running. To me it seems like you don't have the power you are supposed to have. For 25L boiling volume 2000-2500w should be sufficient. Also, throw away that Fotek SSR and buy a reputable brand... I have had...

Of course it also depends on volume, but what i mean is that controller have nothing to do with heating time - if it doesn't start PWM before you reach value for some reason - possibly a wrong config. I see Argentina have 220v and you have 240v elements - which means at 220v they output 1000w...

gonzalito: Heating time should all depend on your heating element power and nothing else. And if you use 240v element - you feed it between two phases, not between one phase and neutral.

That is correct, you just bend the legs. quite standard mounting for TO-92's because it is easier to solder than when they are straight in a row :-) Bigdaddyale: have you ordered and finished the boards?

Anybody tried my pcb design yet?

Ask if it is possible to get the basket mesh at 600 micron instead of 400. Best change i have made on my system.

Yeah, as said above 600micron is larger than 400. 600 does still give clean wort, but with alot better flow. Sparging could take 1h in worst case for me before, now flow is very good then also. And i only have one brew with it, but it was never close to stuck. I can also say that i usually go...

I'm waiting for a custom built stainless counterflow chiller, with 1/2" ID inner tube, welded tri-clover connectors for wort - and total coil length of ~32-33 feet. It will probably be alot better than my stainless 12 feet CFC, which is same type as morebeer and a few others is selling.

I don't get what downsides there would be with counterflow vs immersion chiller... as i see it, counterflow chiller is not needed to clean at all.. simply just circulate boiling hot wort through it a few minutest before starting to chill.. then it is sanitized.... After cooling and wort is...

Old thread, but here is my take anyway.. i did have a regular 6x14" 300 micron, side hanged spider.. it worked ok, but i really never tried it many times, because i thought it was to small for my 50L batches.. so i ordered a custom made 8.9" wide 16.1" long 300 micron filter which have long...

Yes, i acually tested it a while ago, seems to work fine with both softwares... But there was some small bugs / fixes i have made to the board - and i haven't tried the last revision - because i haven't even ordered the PCB's for it (my board works as fine, just some silkscreen and stuff...

The fix for heating element is not very complicated.. instead of using "off-the-shelf" units, CBS could custom order elements which are three phase (or possibility of splitting like 3x1800W so one can choose to turn on/off each of the heating tubes of the element). The elements look like this -...

You are probably right about the scorching - i have never had that trouble with my setup. Also, i can agree that there is probably better calling it issues rather than flaws. But still i think this should have been checked better before starting to sell the setups. But i don't agree that single...

Call it what you want - i call the original recirculation design for "mash whirlpooling", since that is what co-brewing did show on their original demo video. With thicker mashes i understand it doesn't form a whirlpool, but i'm still calling it that.. And even if it spins or not - it seems to...

I would say there are three different kinds of whirlpooling... 1. inside the mash basket (as per original co-brewing) 2. Inside kettle, after boil to pile up hops and break material. 3. inside the kettle, under the basket during mashing. And my look at it is that number 1 is a design flaw...