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If you do not secondary your trub and yeast cake will be in a nice little compact pile on the bottom of the fermenter. I would not use the spigot to rack. I would siphen off of the top into another bucket then boil your bottling sugar and mix it into there. THEN I would use the spigot to bottle...

The why not in this case being that it will still be flat. Just don't let them think that there is something wrong with their beer when they open even at two weeks and it is not as carbonated as they wanted.

One or two degrees won't hurt anything. It happens to me all the time. Consistancy is more important than hitting your exact temperature though. If you want a constant 68 but you are sometimes in the mid 70's and sometimes in the mid 60's that is honestly worse than sitting at a constant 70.

Once the beer is done fermenting I usually don't worry about keeping an exact temp for them. I mean I don't let them freeze or bake or anything, but 70ish is usually just fine.

Don't worry too much man I'm sure it will turn out great! Just needs some more time to carb up and mellow.

You don't even really need a racking cane just start a siphon with some tubing. As long as you keep it above the trub. Honestly though a secondary is just moving around the beer for no reason.

Edit: ok I see what is going on here. I looked up the recipe itself vs the recomended recipe. Ok here is how it goes. If you just use the can you will have to use the sugar to get to your target gravity, this can dry out your beer and give it a cidery taste. You have the option though of...

Despite what the website says, what are the instructions on the kit? And can you give me a link to the site as well?

Wait, are you saying that you want to make a wheat beer but have no wheat malt? Or am I missing something? Are you saying that you have to complete kit but the website is suggesting you use MORE wheat malt? If you are saying that you want to raise your gravity using dextrose keep in mind that...

No, I never strain my beer as I put it in the fermenter. Just make sure the temperature stays under control for fermentation and don't touch it. If you are not adding anything to the secondary there is no need to secondary at all. I do this and my beers come out crystal clear without using any...

Update: This came out amazing. Needs a full month to carb well, but I am assuming that it is because of the high og.

That makes sense. I just know personally I hate having to rack my beer more than once. Purging with C02 should help a lot though.

with all this switching around arn't you worried about oxidation?

Yeah, like he said, dry hopping won't help. I have heard of people boiling hops in a small amount of water and adding the water to the fermenter before too, so there is always that. If you are trying to add more fermentables you will have to add more hops to achieve the same level of bitterness...

This one was an extract with grains. I made it with some of the amber dme I had laying around with a half lb of honey malt and some citra.

+1 to that! Also you can harvest the yeast in the container it came in. Free 1/2 gallon growler!

If you forgot the peels in the boil I would add the boiled water and the peels, but I would use as little water as possible. It would be much better though if you just added the peels in the last five min of the boil.

I have literally harvested enough for a 5 gallon batch of light ale by taking the dregs out of the bottom of two yellow snows and pouring it in 1.020 wort and leaving it till it finished fermenting and pitching it directly. It worked perfectly. A lot of people want to make it more complicated...

Lots of recipies say to boil the peels in the last five min of the boil, so personally I would just boil the peels for five min then add them... Next time I would put them in either the last five min of the boil or at flameout.

The beer continues to ferment, but (as with every time you transfer to secondary) everything that was starting to settle goes back into suspension and it takes longer to clear.