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Good point. That would be the the first thing to check.

Get a multimeter! They are pretty cheap and very helpful for troubleshooting.

If he did wire like in my instructions, there will be no leaking to the element outlets. If the selector switch is OFF, current can leak to the contactors but no further. So if all is wired they way it should be, there will be no current on the receptacles when the selector switch is in OFF...

If you'll use male connectors on the panel (like I did), you'll need female connectors on the cable. This would be the cable option to use: Braided Cable with XLRCON-M connector (Male Panel Mount)

Look at this: http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2012/06/100-lactobacillus-berliner-weisse.html

Hi all! Someone did a 100% WLP677 Lactobacillus Delbrueckii fermentation, or any other bacteria? Seems to be that I can’t consume yeast anymore (intolerance) and I’m trying to check my alternatives. I’ve tried Brett, but I guess it’s too similar to normal yeast, so my body reacted anyway...

Good question. I don't have time to brew a lot, so did not change only one thing at a time to figure out what the issue was. Maybe it was a mix of all of the points I've changed. I got my self a refractometer, and measured the mash every 15 minutes. That helped me to understand if the mash is...

I fixed the issue! :ban: - I tightened the mill a little - I did a mash out - I've used a sparge ring instead of a hose on the grain bed 82% mash efficiency! I'm happy with that.

Not sure...I've used this one: https://www.amazon.ca/DROK-Multimeter-Amperage-Measuring-Transformer/dp/B014W3D1OC Once I've got the multimeter, I've measured it and cut the hole with a jigsaw. I had to work the hole with a metal file till it I got a good fit. The PID's have a standard hole...

Yeah, I'll do some tests when I find the time to brew. :( I don't think that the false bottom is the issue. I had 80% efficiency with this mash tun when batch sparging, no mash out. In my fly sparge, I drain 8 gal in 45 minutes, that is the same rate as Kal uses.

Yeah, I really think that my problem comes form channeling during the sparge. I have a 3-4 inches of water on the grain bed and the hose is floating on the outside of the kettle. The sparge water flows in slowly, not moving the top water much, I will try to find another way to sparge more...

Thanks for the comments! Some additional info: - I dont do a mash out but the mash time will rise till I hit sparge temp in the HLT - I dont use a sparge arm - I sparge with 168F water but that will drop a little over time - I've used a few thermometers to be sure about the temperatures - The...

Hi there! I used to bath sparge with a cooler and copper manifold with an efficiency around 75%. I moved over to a 10gal SS Brewtech mashtun and my efficacy moved up to 80%. Now I’m using the SS Brewtech tun within a 3 vessel HERMS system (HLT,MLT,Boil kettle) and I’m getting a brewhouse...

I’ve bought the bundle with K-sensor (which I don’t use) and the SSR. You’ll need an SSR and if the price is right, go for it. Expect some long delays when buying stuff that ships from China! I would not change a thing so far. Everything is working as expected. One can say that the Mash PID...

Thanks for the flowers! Everything is more fun when you share it with others! :mug:

A spa panel is normally used for hot tub installations. It's just an electrical box with a GFCI breaker. So you install a normal breaker in your main electrical box and run the wire to the spa panel, from there you run the wire into the control box. You could also directly install a GFCI in...

20 gal batches or kettles? I've used 15 gal kettles and 20 gal kettles would work too. I think if you want to make batches bigger than 10 gal, you want to build something with more power.

Thats how I did it. Simple, cheap and works great! https://skrilnetz.net/how-to-build-a-brewing-control-panel-herms-240v-30-amp/#heating

I'm not sure about electricity in the UK, but... Is the 30 amp outlet 240V, 2 hot wires + ground? If you have a 30 amp outlet (must be GFCI protected), you can power the elements (one at a time) with the 30 amp circuit...

You'll be fine. All is made in China anyway these days. :)