Search results

Ok, so I've been looking at what electrical components I'll be running, and it seems that I'll need to do a little more work than I had expected. If I used a 2000W element at 120V, that will draw 2000W/120V= 16.7A. The chugger pump I'm looking at pulls 1.3A. The only other electrical components...

I assume the box is to waterproof the exposed element wires? It looks professionally done!

So the power rating isn't necessarily what I should be worried about, but the density? I assume when the product reports LWD it's due to a similar power rating for a longer element? I've seen people use elbows for the sole reason that having the hose too vertical after the hose barb can result...

Never use a refractometer once yeast has been pitched. Some have reported accurate results using correlations, but the stories I've heard about improper readings indicate that you might as well just use your hydrometer and thief. If you don't trust it 100% of the time when taking FG readings...

Thanks for the quick reply! Yeah, I wouldn't ever use a hose without a secured clamp, that's just asking for trouble. I had a close call with stream spraying out of my immersion chiller after accidentally forgetting to empty the water inside from the previous time I brewed. So just to...

Hey guys and gals, I have run into quite a bit of trouble with inconsistent and fluctuating mash temps, cloudy wort after lautering, and properly a achieving mash out temps. This has pushed me to at least design my RIMS setup and source all of the parts I need. I have a few questions to start...

I'm not sure It's in the picture, but is your temperature probe going to go on the opposite side to the eating elements plug? Is there a thermowell there?

I agree with hillhousesawdustco. Brewinghardware sells quickdisconnects for like $4-6, it wouldn't be that expensive, just a pain in the ass to change the keggle fittings. The reducer might get a small buildup of caramelized sugars (this may not even be true), so you just need to worry about...

Very few people open their March pump outlet valves more than 1/2 to 3/4 anyways. You should be fine with a reducer and a nipple threaded on. You are going to be running cleaner through your lines anyways so there shouldn't be any worry. Not quite sure I understand your point about burning out...

This is awesome! How much did this addition cost you? I too would be very interested in a parts list. Wouldn't mind seeing a few more detailed pictures of the heating element in its SS enclosure. Those clamps are beautiful. Good work!

Here's my recommendation: Cool all of your wort to at least below 80F before transfering if not to avoid hot side aeration, then to avoid a large temperature change which can fracture the glass carboy. Start using an auto-siphon with a clip. This reduced chance of infection, makes your life...

Of course! I'm not too worried about stratification once fermentation is complete or during fermentation. The activity of the yeast promotes decent mixing, and when fermentation has stopped, I just pull a sample from the middle and hope the low amount of sugars will mean stratification isn't an...

Sampling your beers shouldnt introduce risk of contamination. If everything is properly sanitized before the transfer (you open both the bottom and sampling valves when sanitizer is in the conical) then all ports, gaskets, etc.. will be sanitized. When you open the valve, the beer coming out...

I agree with the above post. If this is in the primary, or was transferred to secondary within 2ish weeks of fermentation, there should be a good enough film of CO2 protecting your beer. Otherwise I would suggest purging with your CO2 tank if you have one.

The bottling wand makes everyones life a HELL of a lot easier. When the beer reaches the lip of the bottle, and the wand is removed, the beer level is dropped to about 1-1.5 inches below the top, the perfect headspace for a 12oz bottle. bottling bucket is a must. transfer, using an auto-siphon...

Hey Jeremy! Welcome to HBT! I go to Queen's University just south of you in Kingston, ON! I have recently been buying from torontobrewing.ca, not because they are the cheapest, but they are one of the only stores in Canada that have amber malt, amarillo hops, and some of the more "rare" (rare...

Amen to that! The cheapest 'craft' beer you can buy I. Canada will run you at LEAST $42-46 for 24. That's over a hundred dollars already! 12 packs of craft beer start at $14-16, so you can already see how expensive beer can get up here. However, to fill up my propane it costs $18, a batch will...

I always use my theif to check my readings. Stratification can cause incorrect readings, so I always check gravity after I shake my carboy. The carboy is sanitized, the thief and hydrometer are sanitized, so why not put it back? The only downside is not having another excuse to drink beer!

I've been wondering the same thing actually. Would you accomplish this by transferring from the primary to bottle as usual?

Oliver T's in Flint had hop slam yesterday when I was there. Now that's a great store for craft beer! Not far from Detroit either