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Just tried this out with the thermometer I used on that brew day. Seems to be reading 2F greater on the high side and 4F greater on the low side. So I guess my mash was more closer to 158F. Though, I still feel that shouldn't have that dramatic of an effect of the attenuation. I tried the...

I think the temperature after doughing in was 160-162F for less than 5 minutes (first time doing a 3 gallon with BIAB so definitely over shot the strike temp there...) and then settled to ~156F. I mean, maybe that was enough to bump up the unfermentables. I've used these calcs for adjusting...

So, I've had an American brown ale in primary for about 10 days so far (recipe below). Decided to check its gravity reading (actually, an adjusted refractometer reading) and it seems pretty high. Started with an OG of 1.056 and am reading at 1.017 w/ 5.3%abv (refrac. reading of 8.2B converted...

Definitely don't want to use a hydrometer for 1 gallon batches. Grab a refractometer and a wine thief. Only need to take a few drops from the carboy to measure the gravity/brix. Just gotta remember that the alcohol skews the reading, but there are some data/equations/curve fittings to adjust...

I'll do this when I rack from the primary into what I bottle from (bucket or carboy). I'd suggest if you are doing this (especially bottling directly from the primary), see if you can get it slightly tilted before hand so any sediment can settle out. Just, you know, be careful and don't knock...

That's what I normally do, but I guess I just had a brainfart or something. Oh well. Though, this time I decided to crush the grains finer (smallest the mill goes) since I knew I'd get better extract efficiency. Normally I get 70%, this time I got ~85%. So this 5.5% ABV is turning closer...

After many brews using my "batch sparge" method (i.e., pouring wort+grain through colander into another kettle after the mash, put grain back into first kettle, pour sparge water into it and let it sit for a bit, combine and boil), I've tried my luck with BIAB. I made the bags on my own but are...

That looks great! Much better than my half-assed job. Wanted to try to get an inner coil but I was just working with my hands and a paint can...

I just bottled an IPA that had finished fermented not too long ago. I tried to take everyone's advice into consideration. I ended up skipping the bottling bucket this time; it's old and I just realized I can take apart the spigot, which had some brown spots on it. Instead, I siphoned into an...

I ended up making an immersion chiller after getting tired of filling the sink with cold water and ice packs. Got 20-25 feet of soft copper tubing from Lowes (comes pre-coiled so it's easy to manipulate). Wrapped it around a paint can which gave the perfect diameter for my boil kettle; not too...

I'm an idiot. I was thinking 'but how do I stop it?'.... I see what you're getting at now. That makes much more sense.

I was thinking that the oxidation occurs during bottling, which would be independent of length in primary. But true, once it's done, it can't get more done. Just left it in longer to let the yeast clean up after themselves. I'm not sure what you mean by don't start the auto siphon in the...

Any reason for taking it off earlier other than just having the beer bottle conditioning sooner? I could see that helping if it's oxidizing in the primary, but it only gets moved to bottle. Everything during bottling seems to be smooth (no splashing, bubbles). The thing about only pumping the...

This is my first post, so bear with me... I've brewed about 4 or 5 batches (exclusively one gallon) this year so far. Usually an IPA-type of beer but also a porter and two american wheats. Given that I'm fairly new to home brewing, I like the idea of trying the beers weekly after bottling...