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Chlorine will volatilize, chloramine will not. You can encourage the chlorine to volatilize by aerating the water.

How about just using a pressure gauge?

That's great to hear!

For those wondering about how to plumb a permeate pump with a high pressure auto shut off valve (that has a "horseshoe" flow pattern):

Using two Chloraguards is a bit more expensive, but it is the best in terms of treating the chloramine. Chloraguard+ Chlorine Grabber is a bit less expensive, and still very good.

With Chloramines it's prudent to have two carbon blocks. I'd go with: 1 mic sediment->Chloraguard->chlorine grabber. You can find this combo as a filter kit here: Premium RO Filter Kit - Buckeye Hydro OR 1 mic sediment->Chloraguard->Chloraguard If your system only has a spot for 1 carbon...

The term "well water" tells/implies nothing about the quality of the water - it only tells you that the water comes from the ground. It could be exceptional, or it could be foul (we've seen both), or anywhere in between. Russ

The concentrate pressure is just a few psi below your feedwater pressure.

After selling and using permeate pumps for over 20 years, my guess is less than 10% of users find them too noisy. If you have the RO in your basement, or garage, or essentially any where other than under the kitchen sink, it will likely be a non issue. Your comment on the spring is interesting...

The permeate pump and high pressure ASOV is really a slam dunk for anyone with a pressurized storage tank because this configuration improves system performance tremendously and it pays for itself in short order due to the water savings. Russ

For commercial systems we use a 5 minute empty bed contact time with catalytic GAC for chloramine. What's in those inline filters is sometimes plain ole' GAC and sometimes GAC with KDF.

The purpose of the carbon, in large part, is to treat the chlorine and chloramine.

Don't forget the high pressure ASOV

Yes. This revolutionary pump is powered only by the hydraulic energy of the waste water - which is usually lost to the drain (i.e., no electricity required). The pump forces product water into the pressurized storage tank, overcoming the backpressure of the tank. These pumps dramatically...

Yes - with a standard auto shut off valve you should get about 50% of your tank volume out in water. Yes - you can configure the system to have one pressure tank feed one outlet, and another pressure tank feed another outlet. There's no particular benefit to having both tanks be of identical...

A word of caution regarding RO booster pumps. Be aware of the max pressure limits for each component in your system. Typically the weakest component is the housings - which are often rated at a max of 80 psi. To take advantage of your elevated pumped pressure, and protect your housings: Russ

Martin is on the right track here. What is the gpd capacity of your membrane? What prefilters (the filters that treat the water before it reaches the membrane) are you using? Russ

In fact, those disinfectants have to be removed before the water hits the RO membrane.

Wow you HAVE been studying! Good observation. Either location for the pressure gauge is fine. The internal pressure of the housing is almost identical to the feedwater pressure. Very little pressure is lost out of the permeate port.

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