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The lower end/home owner sealers require those expensive textured bags. Commercial vacuum sealers use smooth, lower cost bags.

What that gauge is telling you is pressure loss through the prefilters (not the membrane). Although sometimes you'll see guidance saying something like "change filters at a 15% pressure loss," I don't like that approach. If you have low pressure to begin with, you may not be able to "afford"...

Our Premium RO System https://www.buckeyehydro.com/premium-ro-systems/ , which is what most of our homebrew customers order, has an "asov kit" as an option. That includes the three pieces you need to have the system shut down when your kettle (or some other container) is full: 1) Auto Shut Off...

You may be able to find what you need here: https://www.buckeyehydro.com/fittings/ If you have a leak where the tube enters the quick connect fitting (rather than from where the fitting screws in), then the likely cause is: 1. Tube not cut cleanly and squarely 2. Tube not inserted into the...

There are four "standard sizes" of filter cartridges. Two different diameters (2.5" and 4.5"), and two different lengths (10" and 20"). The smallest of the four, 10" long and 2.5" in diameter, is what people are accustomed to seeing in the RO systems used in home brewing. That means there are...

Any RO system (of the type we're talking about here) can be hooked up to a garden hose. See the "hose bib adapters" here: https://www.buckeyehydro.com/feedwater-fittings/

Beware of the proprietary replacement filters. Also - any RO system can be configured to produce just about whatever concentrate to permeate ratio you'd like. There is a small $4 part that sets that ratio, and you can change that out to modify the ratio. Membrane manufacturers specify their...

And one more thing.... Every time you change your prefilters, remove, wash, dry, and lube your housing orings with food grade silicone grease. https://www.buckeyehydro.com/oring-lubricant-food-grade/

Check the spec's on your carbon block. Ask your vendor if need be.

Or when your pressure gauge tells you they are clogging, or when you reach 50% or less of the stated chlorine capacity of your carbon block

And one more reminder: You should be sanitizing your system ~ annually and use food grade silicone grease on your orings every time you change your filters.

Sediment filters - typical change out is 6 to 12 months, depending upon how much sediment you have and if you get algae growth. Carbon Blocks - when they clog, when your reach 50% of the manufacturer's "Chlorine Capacity." RO membranes: when TDS rejection is lower than you'd like, or when...

Careful! Those clear housing probably have a max pressure limit of about 80 psi. Those are the weakest link in the system in terms of ability to withstand high pressure.

Here's a schematic for a system that has both an outlet to a pressure tank on an outlet to an atmospheric (unpressurized) tank. Disregard the DI stage - that's not something you'll need.

But remember, a pressurized storage tank brings that low pressure back up.

Well... a couple of thoughts here. So called "tankless" systems are simply RO systems with higher gpd rated membranes - so that when you open the faucet you get a reasonable flow. Realize however that that reasonable flow is still at very low pressure. In your system, you have outlets that...

We can do that!

The most common are simply calcite (calcium carbonate) - will add minerals as long as the pH is below 7. There are many different remin cartridges on the market with all manner of components

Sorry, but its not clear to me what your question is!

Have the water tested before you buy the property, if possible. That way the cost of any needed treatment equipment can be worked into the deal. Here's a test we use often: https://www.buckeyehydro.com/drinking-water-test/ In the water treatment business we can treat almost any contaminant...