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Hey guys, So I've made a few honey beers where I added raw honey to my flame out and it's come out great. So my brewing assistants and I have begun discussing adding honey to fermenters in the form of raw honeycomb. Maybe a Saison. So my question is, how much yeast do honeycombs contains...

So I did some post stalking on you. Are you sure you took a correct hydro reading? 1.09X seems a bit high for a Pale Ale that came out of a kit. At any rate if you did a 5 gal batch then just pull a bottle every 7-10 days and give it a taste test.

Also give this a read through. http://www.beersyndicate.com/learning_resources/beer_tutorials_view.asp?id=45

I'd also ask how far in advance did you prepare your starters, and did you continually take gravity readings to make sure you were producing an adequate cell count?

Guess how I got my name for my "40 Minute Porter."

Sounds like you have some prison hooch on your hands. Try a thimble full.

Delirium Tremens Hunahpu Double Barrel Pliny the Elder

If you're still uneasy, this clip on heat shield might work. http://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hs.lg.bv.htm

I drank Jaegermeister for a while before I had a beer I found palatable. Killians if I recall haha. Also I've heard the 32oz referred to as howlers here in Florida, because 64 oz Growlers are illegal, and the howlers make us cry.

What kind of hop strainer & how much? What brand stir plate, and how much?

You will have some extra heat loss, probably about 2 degrees worth given all the headspace. The real question is how you plan on using the tun? If you are fly sparging the grain bed depth is something that does matter. If you're batch sparging then not so much. edit: Fly sparging, get...

The grain absorption on that plus dead space would call for more than 5 gallons I would think. Probably need a 7 or 8 gallon mash, with 3 sparge at 20lbs. A beta rest helps to break down betaglucans which are what lends to the sticky, thicker properties you got in your beer. In certain cases...

Something I always forget, if you're using a slap pack activate it first. Nothing worse than sitting up while I wait for yeast to multiply. Good luck and happy brewing!

Always over shoot I say. I use a 15 gallon pot, and 10 gallon tun. If i ever decide to g o up then I can, I never have to worry about boil overs, and never have to worry about sloshing hot liquid over my hands as I move stuff by myself or with friends.

Do not submerge the regulator. Water can enter the diaphragm, or cause rusting on gauge springs that cause them to stick. I found that out after a helpful assistant tossed one into my sanitizing bucket when I was doing a full breakdown and cleaning of my kegerator.

Yea, there are 2.5 Gallons kegs as well. I even have a bunch of 3 gallon kegs that I sometimes use when I've split a batch for doing dry hop tests. Here's a link for 2.5 gallon ball locks. Cheaper than the boxes, and the same price as those weird plastic thing you linked...

If it makes you feel better, that second one looks normal to me.

No, see, this is organic air that i farm myself using the ancient air farming techniques... ;)

I brew 5-gallons and only ever use a starter if I'm making something with a high OG. Otherwise, I just use slap packs and pitch after about 12 hours of the yeast starting up. Normally no later than a few hours after I've chilled my wort. As far as leaving your wort, you could but that raises...

Yea, 64 should be good, hold that, give it a nudge and wait 24 hours