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Living in the Scottish Highlands, I've done many (maybe 100) Speyside distillery tours, with various sets of visitors. Over the main visitor season, the tour guides are mostly temporary staff (often foreign students). They know the tour spiel, but can answer few questions, even fairly simple...

I very nearly poured away, 40 pints of Heffewizen. Which (from carbon - burnt flour) was very smokey. But then found someone nearby, who loved it. He also likes peaty Scottish whiskys!

On the UK Inkbird, with two sockets (one heating, other cooling). The plugs Neutral and Earth, is hardwired to both sockets N & E. It is only the Live connection which is switched. I'm guessing that your air con unit can't just be plugged into the Inkbird, instead of the wall. Or you wouldn't...

Sad, but good luck. Reminds me of the song by roy harper "when an old cricketer leaves the crease".

Not sure what "the flavor of non-alcoholic cider" is, as I've never tried it. Freshly pressed, sweet eating apple juice is nice, in small quantities. But, unlike dry cider, I couldn't drink a few pints. If I can't get cider apples, or a percentage of crab apples, to juice for cider making. But...

Limoncello, sounds worth a shot. Must look for a recipe. Slightly off topic. But I've been wondering if using invert sugar might be beneficial when making liqueurs. As invert is meant to seem 20-40% sweeter than sucrose, you'd get the same sweetening with a smaller addition. So less reduction...

Much worse, if you are using the inbuilt heater, for step mash increments. Then I'd expect a 15°C (or whatever the steps been) difference, for 20 to 15min depending on flow rate. The base area can reach the new temperature in maybe 3min, while temp in the grain bed will have hardly budged...

I found the BT thermometer pretty accurate (though haven't t checked for a while now). A quick check is to compare in built, with BT, with water only. Once the temp is stable, or when has just gone in, and with fast recirculation.

My beer, is lucky to last 10 weeks. Apart from my imperial stout recipe.

Marmite was developed, as a way to sell unwanted surplus dead yeast, from breweries. But dead yeast, can supply minerals; amino acids; & vit B for new yeast growth.

The suspended yeast, required in proper hefeweizen, will consume any residual oxygen after bottling / kegging. So making it fairly oxidation proof.

For bottle conditioning, I'd always go with a high flocculation yeast, to get a clean pour. Nottingham, or CBC-1 are both OK. If primary yeast is high flocculation, but there's been any delay. I'd make a small starter, from saved yeast. After 3 days, let it settle in fridge, pour off liquid...

I bulk prime, in King Kegs. At 125g per 23L, with sugar dissolved in around 300mL water (by heating in microwave). After stirring in sugar solution. I immediately, transfer around ¼ of each batch to bottles. Using minimal CO2 pressure, to acheive transfer. Via a hose, just long enough to...

Hefe's are my regular/goto beer, accounting for maybe ⅓rd of batches. Usually slight variations on Graham Wheelers, Schneider Weiss recipe. 56% wheat malt; 20% Vienna; 18% Pils; 6% Caramunich I've only used dried yeasts: Mangrove Jack's Bavarian Wheat M20, and WHC Banana Split. Would be...

The krausen bubbles can carry a fair amount of liquid. In overflows, I've lost around 2L of a 20L 15% stout, and 3L of a 23L 8% stout, from a 30L vessel. Having a blow off tube, means loss doesn't cause a mess. I now give stouts 100% headroom.

Wheeler's book, "Brew your own British Real ale" is kind of the the bible here. But he never gives the yeast to use. Saying (elsewhere) that homebrewers probably wouldn't have access to the yeasts which the breweries were using. Timothy Taylor Landlord 4.2%, is my favourite pub draught beer...

Voss Kveik, can give a bit of twang. Nice, in similar Borve Brewhouse ale (26 IBU, 34EBC. Graham Wheeler recipe). Making it very refreshing. But maybe not a typical ale flavour.

After the mashout, everything is boiled. So separating part, to boil separately, seems a waste of time. Unless there's more detail we haven't been told?

I've found a pressure washer is good for shifting the bulk of any deposits - in demijohns. I have a 60L carrboy, but keep it as work of art, as it's too heavy to lift when full!

There will (usually, depending on your set up) be some un-utilised water in the pipework (to the tap /ball valve). Did you first drain some off and discard it / add it back, before drawing the sample that you measured? Also when measuring SG (which I guess was using a hydrometer), did you add...