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Yes, They do make Chrome slip nuts for drain pipes. I reccomend a 1 1/2 x 1 1/4 reducing nut as it will snug around the element threads nicely. See my previous posts (last few pages) for some pictures... You probably won't find it at HD. Try and Ace or other smaller store.

So I followed this schedule this weekend (20 at 122, 45 at 151, 45 at 162), and ended up having to add 15 minutes to the last rest before the iodine test came out correctly. Though that may have been because I botched one of the infusions, I'm not exactly sure how or when, but when trying to...

1 volume as stated in the OP

I used a 15" right angle drain-er-oo for mine, and I also used a reducing nut on the end so there is virtually no epoxy contact with the water AND I used NSF rated epoxy putty which seems to be holding up thusfar. The downside is my "hold-er-in-place" doodad is a lot more wonky than your...

This is great guys! I just wanted to confirm there is some purpose to it, so I think I'll do the recipe as-is for now, then if I want to simplify the schedule later I'll have a baseline.

So I just racked a batch of an Ordinary Bitter over to a corny keg to 2ndary / age a bit before (at least the plan was) to force carbonate (at about 1 volume or so is recommended for the style). So out of curiosity I hit the calculators and if I chill to say 50 deg, they say <0.1 PSI !? So...

batch sparge

I'm looking at a Lager recipe that calls for: 20 min rest @ 122 45 min rest @ 151 45 min rest @ 162 (or 161.2) So far I've only done a couple of single-infusion ale recipes, but based on what I've read I can't figure the purpose of the 162 degree rest. It's not listed in my reference as...

you made the recipe yuri posted, yeah? is that what you used?

That may be the case for ESB, but I'm not convinced that they aren't using something else in Longhammer. The flavor profile seems different, but I admit I don't know enough to really know the difference. But I do know that LH is pretty danged clean and dry and I don't get the vibe of...

I've been going over this thread and I'm wondering if there was ever any consensus as to the most appropriate yeasts for a longhammer clone? I have US-05 and Wy1056 on hand, but Nottingham should be easy to dig up. Is there a liquid equivalent to Nottingham?

nice addition lustreking. I may have to do this to mine, but the coating seems pretty hardy so far so there might be some variance between brands. I have used my heatstick for 4 batches (3 after rebuilding) now and it works pretty darn well! So far so good for the NSF-rated plumbers epoxy...

Just did my first all-grain batch with a 10 gallon rubbermaid and batch sparging from a 10 gallon kettle and 5 gallon pot (for 2nd rinse). Worked out pretty darn well! I think I calculated my efficiency wrong, but all my numbers were in the ballpark.

I see in another thread you have a greyhound. I have a greyhound mix. Would you be comfortable killing leftover beer yeast to put in treats? interesting. good to know. I wonder if growing some yeast would be cheaper than buying the nutritional supplement....

Does anyone know if 'brewers yeast' actually comes from brewing? I ask because a there are a lot of dog biscuit recipes that call for 'brewers yeast', but I know dogs and hops is a no-no! So I was wondering if it really comes from brewing leftovers or not... and I'd assume that home brew...

I bought the reducing nut at a local ACE. The one in the picture is from some random brand from Sacramento, but I believe the Ace brand ones are chrome as well. The putty epoxy was much easier to work with. Only time will tell if it seals as well, but this is not outside of it's intended use.

It wasn't hard to find chrome nuts once I knew that was what I needed, but HD only had zinc.

hmm, they have some on this page, but they're still a bit pricey... http://www.plumbingsupply.com/stainles.html brass wasn't significantly cheaper either.

no, trying to turn the nut with JB weld on it completely shredded my element

It's my understanding that even if it doesn't hurt you, the Zinc is going to corrode a lot faster. Also, in talking with the guy with the how-to page. He said he was able to disassemble the ones he built with silicone when he went back in to epoxy them. On the other hand, mine built with JB...