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The point is - INCLUDE A MANUAL...BACKUP your product....if it's not built as good as it could be you better take damn good care of your customers! Obviously, the OP has not received any of the above.

Blichmanns therminator only costs $200 and has an 8 page owners manual with it. I did not see a max psi listed then again I have never heard of one breaking down due to pressure. I run my garden hose full bore through it at about 80psi...works like a gem. Then again, it's built really well.

Jimmy82 - Do you work for or have ties to Brewha ? Just wondering since you have 88 posts on HBT and every single one is related to the BIAC system and nothing else...may just be a coincidence.

Hope the OP comes to a satisfactory agreement or solution with Brewha. In my opinion - I don't think it is a good "Design". They took a conical, added a fancy basket, added off the shelf pump, off the shelf temp control, and off the shelf hot water element - i'm sure shipped it to China and...

The CO2 in your beer is pressure, temperature and time dependant. As stated above not on volume. One thing to keep in mind, be sure to purge off all of the 02 in your keg. With 4 gallons of headspace this will take a lot more than just burping the keg when its filled with 5 gallons. Discovered...

Yep. Just looking at the pics. An over pressure would cause the shell of the coolant jacket to fail in the other direction or cause the weld/seal to fail. I would be willing to bet that the pump you were using would not supply enough pressure to cause failure even if it was plugged. That is...

was the tank closed during the cooling stage ?

Brew it up strong create a new category - "Wheatless Weizen Bock" !!

if it comes out good you have ultimately reduced your areas of concern to either the Mash or Starter. If it comes out good revamp your typical mash and starter process. If its still screwed then target everything.

This is a big question....with lots of big answers....check out links below, they can help (if you havent already). I think its a personal choice to build water profiles or your water is that bad and you have too. I noticed an improvement in my beer soon after starting to build water profiles...

wouldnt need a starter for small batch anyway..lol

Dont know really about the mold, wouldnt assume so..just a thought really. If you do a smaller test batch, try it with just pitching yeast without a starter...may be able to eliminate one variable there as well.

Not always. Some wild yeast will form a pellicle on the surface. Tough to say where in your process you are picking it up, if this is the case. FYI: I read an article from a brewer who had discovered quite a bit of mold in his brewing area and was picking up contaminents just racking from...

For the hell of it I would brew a gallon batch... Prior to brewing Clean, Sanitize as you have normally been doing and mash at 158....if you still get that low of AA then I would rip everything apart and find the bug!

Have you checked calibration of your hydrometer lately, they can become inaccurate. Just wondering if the low AA is not a bad hydrometer reading...if that's the case then we may go down a different road to determine off flavors or desired flavors, etc... my 2 cents

Lagering the beer will mellow out some of the bitterness.

Leave in fridge for couple weeks and it will be clear.

WOW....I would like to know if they have ever actually sold one ?

Interesting...I have not seen or used these before. Guess I need to do a search online and check them out. Thanks!

Happy 1st all !!