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I'm Canadian, all this chat on Home Brew Talk in Imperial measurements is just plain crazy talk. You folks in the US need to get on the metric bandwagon one day soon. To answer the question, doing calculations in metric is just plain easier then doing them in Imperial. Metric is the world...

Brewed this one up a while back, nice beer. Used 1318 and it finished at 1.018, higher than my other NEIPA attempts with that yeast. Weird thing is this beer ended up dropping clear in the keg before it kicked, never had another NEIPA recipe drop clear on me like that before. Still, tasty...

Like everyone has said above, test your mash pH at room temps. The higher mash temp will skew your readings, about 0.3, but the higher temp sample will be 0.3 pH lower than the room temp sample. So your reading of 6.0 pH was more likely 6.3 pH at room temp. Second, calibrate your meter right...

Unless I'm in a huge rush I always make a starter with liquid yeast. You can reassure yourself that the yeast is still alive and if it's a bit older you are rebuilding the cell count to where it should be. A pack of liquid yeast has ~100 billion cells when it leaves the factory and they start...

It looks like 10 gal at about 1.080? SRM looks like it'll be about 17.5. That is a strong, dark colored pale ale! If I plug your numbers into Brun Water, use 100% RO which yours looks like it is, and add no salts I get a pH of 5.50. You've got a lot of crystal in that recipe, 10.8% of the...

You'd need to post your water report and your grain bill for anyone to really be able to help you. Are you saying your water report shows those calcium, chloride and sulfate numbers? That is same damn pure water coming out of your taps. A pH of 5.23 with basically zero salts in your water...

I haven't been to Vancouver since the whole craft beer thing started up there so I won't be much help for that city. I would recommend Parallel 49 though. Never been to the brewery, but they make good beer so it's probably worth checking out. I was in Victoria 2 years ago. I would check out...

Questions like this seem to be pretty common when people start messing with their water. The #1 goal in adjusting your water is to hit a certain mash pH. Ignore everything else and focus on that pH. The lower the alkalinity, the easier it is to lower your pH, so for APA/IPA's lower alkalinity...

I'm not sure how you are getting that out of the linked article... From the "Results" section of the xBmt; "While the minimum number of correct responses required to reach statistical significance is 15 (p<0.05), a total of 16 tasters (p=0.013) accurately identified the unique sample. These...

You would think that it wouldn't matter. The Brulosophy guys have done 4 xBmts on fermentation vessel type/size and I think 3 of the 4 reached statistical significance. Apparently the type of fermentor used does impact the final taste of the beer. Here is a link to the glass carboy vs corny...

As long as the beer is cold you can use gelatin. The presence or lack of carbonation won't effect how effectively the gelatin works.

Yeah, I'm not sure what that Carared is going to do for you. I would consider going back to Maris Otter, or doing a 50/50 split with pilsner/maris otter with an amber. You are looking for malty and maris otter is a great way to get a more complex/malty taste than just straight up pilsner malt.

Secondary fermentation is a term that gets tossed into beer kit instructions and stuck in newbie's heads, but it is really not something that you need to worry about. If you really want to do a secondary you should think in terms of vessels, not fermentations. Brew your beer, put it in a...

When I was doing BIAB it was 11L (3 gal) batches on my stove top, I've since moved on to a Grainfather. I didn't bother with a false bottom at all. I insulated my kettle with Reflect-X and if I was applying direct heat I would simply stir the grains the entire time, bag never once scorched. I...

A robot brewing butler would be sweet. Sounds like your friend might want to take a look at the PicoBrew. Sounds like it is pretty close to what he is looking for, it is the Keurig of brewing machines.

I'm not sure on the pressure. I've seen 0.75 gal/hr tossed around as a good rate to remove chlorine. It looks like a GAC filter will remove chloramine, I think I'd just toss in a campden tablet and call it a day. Lots of info for you -...

It'll work. Keg's can hold a ton of pressure so it isn't going to blow up on you or anything. I would still use a priming calculator so you don't end up with an over carbed beer, but a keg is basically a big, metal bottle. Spunding valve not required as long as you use a calculator. Try this...

Does your system include a carbon block? Without one, or if your water is passing through too quickly, you may be leaving chlorine in the water. I don't think that carbon filters remove chloramine, at least not very well. Why not try treating the RO water with campden and seeing if that...

Yeah, thanks. I ended up ordering the O-ring kit from them. Just had to come up with a few more things to buy to make the shipping cost seem worth it.

How is the softened water softened? If you are using a typical water softener machine (the ones with the big white salt pellets), be aware that you are adding a lot of salt to that water. If you've already got RO I'd just use 100% of that and build it up to whatever profile you are shooting...