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I'm with BeardedBrews. When I make a lager I wait for fermentation to finish, cold crash, gelatin for 24 hours and rack into a keg. I'll then lager and carbonate at the same time. I find the beer is great by 2 weeks, I've never tried pushing it out to 4 weeks before tapping the keg to see if...

Brun Water predictions are usually about 0.2pH lower then my actual measurements. Over a number of batches you can figure out if this is consistent or not and just adjust from there. I just note the difference and plan for a pH that will be ~0.2pH higher then Brun Water predicts.

Twang could be as simple as the taste of extract. It could also be from a bunch of other things, fermentation temp control is a good suggestion to look at. If you are priming and bottling conditioning you are going to have some sediment on the bottom of your bottles. The only way to eliminate...

Well... it doesn't necessarily have to be a full on kegging and dispensing system. You could just get a single keg, CO2 bottle and regulator and some tubing. But really, if you're doing that you might as well go all the way. To keep the beer O2 free you need enclosed vessels that can hold...

I think you're rushing it a bit. Not sure why you've settled on dry hopping 1 day apart. I would add your biotransformation hop as planned and then wait for the beer to hit FG before adding the second dry hop. I'd let the yeast tell you when its time to try hop, not just arbitrary dates...

First off I'd stop with the secondary. If you have oxidation issues taking an entire transfer out of the equation should help. Other then that if you are bottling there isn't much you can do other then be careful. When you transfer the beer into a bottling bucket it is exposed to oxygen...

Are you brewing all grain or extract? You say you aren't an AG brewer and then immediately say you are brewing BIAB. BIAB IS all grain brewing. When brewing all grain you really, really need to pay attention to your water. All municipal water is treated with chlorine or chlorimine, the...

It's hard to say without seeing what your other salt levels are at. Sulfates, chloride, magnesium, etc. I'd imagine they are all in the ballpark and nothing too extreme. You've got a fairly high alkalinity level, which will push your mash pH up. With that water you just need to use more acid...

I just punched your numbers into a starter calculator for fun to see how much you under pitched. For a 10 gal batch at 1.064 SG the calculator is saying you should pitch 890 billion cells. A single packet of yeast contains ~100 billion cells straight out of the factory. If you used a stir...

I've brewed a couple of batches with 34/70 @ 66F and they came out fine. 34/70 never seems to want to clear for me so you still need to lager for a bit. But they taste like a lager.

Lots and lots of people brew 1 gallon batches. This should get you started; https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=311884

Well... a coconut, citra IPA sounds horrifying to me, but to each their own. You don't mention what went wrong with your other IPA's but I can guess. Not sure on your experience level, but with 5 posts under your belt I'm going to guess fairly new. I've found beginners have the most trouble...

Agreed. This is definitely an "old school" style IPA. Not my cup of tea, but that appears to be the recipe and hop amounts. Looks like the book was published in 2012. The blurb in the book on this recipe says; "As part of a team, I helped create this beer at the Anheuser-Busch Merrimack...

Well I was curious, so I plugged it into Beersmith. The IBU's don't seem to match, Mitch says the recipe is 120 IBU's calculated and Beersmith is spitting out 76 IBU's for me. However he does say there are 70 IBU's in the finished beer, so who knows?! Could be the default AA's on the hops in...

1lbs of hops per barrel of beer is pretty much 0.53oz per gal (16oz / 30 gal). The recipe says it is hopped at 1.46 lb/bbl which works out to about 0.78 oz/gal, just go from there. If you are going for a 5 gal recipe you are looking at 3.9 oz of hops in total. 15.8% of 3.9 oz = 0.62oz 10.5%...

Band-aid and/or plastic is chlorine or chloramines in your water. The yeast react with the chlorine/choramine and create chlorophenols, which is what you're tasting/smelling. You can treat your water with 1/2 a crushed Campden tablet to fix the issue. If your water is treated with chlorine...

Water is one of those things you need to play around with the find what you like. From looking around online it looks like a Vienna lager water profile would be something like; Ca - 50-75 | SO4 - 40-120 | Cl - 50-150 If you are starting from distilled don't worry about your alkalinity number...

I know that you aren't pleased with this turn of events you just described, but man, that sounds amazing. I could see the NEIPA appeal wearing off... nah, I really couldn't. :mug:

That's funny, 6oz of hops at flame out seems like a normal amount to me now, definitely not a TON... Ah NEIPA's, what have you done to me?... I've done plenty of batches with 6oz at FO. I've tossed them straight into the kettle and used a SS hop spider. I haven't noticed any flavor...

^ +1 for that calculator. Also why create a topic about foamy pours and then argue when it is pointed out to you that your line length math is wrong? You're getting foamy pours, your lines are too short. That's the answer, why argue that?