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Thanks guys. Makes a lot of sense. I was just confused because some books and sites say to bulk age it but to me that seems hard on the yeast and could risk carbing. I know some brewers bulk age and then add yeast afterwards but I am not going to do that. bottling and storing is no big deal...

You think thats bad? During my last FB I decided to fill from my tub as it is faster for 6.5 gallons than my sink. Was just about to pour into my pot when I saw a little fish thingy swimming around in the water. I quickly poured off and topped up with the sink instead which has several...

I just soak them in hot water with dish soap for several hours. Or if I am in the mood I mix up some C-Brite or Bleach with very hot water and soak for 8-12 hours. The labels will just fall off after that. Then I have a hard dish brush to scrub off the remaining glue or you can use a brillo...

You can put a little water in there to swish around and grab the foam and pour out. However I usually just let it reduce and the pour whatever out I can then just pour my wort on top of it. Some have said this is perfectly fine. Better to let a more knowledgeable brewer to answer it though...

I have an Altbier fermenting away and it won't be done for at least another 2 weeks now. I am planning on going 3-4 weeks with this brew in primary. I have been reading up on Altbier's and there is a lot of talk about cold aging them. My question is should I cold age my batch in a secondary...

I see everyone on this forum loves this stuff. My question is this. I was never a big fan of Shandy or Magners when I was in London and the last time I had Cider Jack was quite a few years ago and I only felt so so about it. Knowing this would it be worth it for me to brew a batch of this?

I do not have a problem with leaving the brew in the Primary for 3-5 weeks, in fact I intended to go at least 3 with my Altbier, probably 4. I just want to make sure that fermentation went at least far enough to bottle after conditioning. I don't think I want to wait a month and then open it...

Well, you sort of answered your own question as did Alpo. With the full bottle the limited amount of gas is only pushing on a small amount of the bottle yet with the half full bottle you have more gas pushing on more of the glass. Hence Alpo's explanation of more people pressing on a pane of...

I did a Brewer's Best kit on Friday and man I had some massive airlock activity on Saturday and Sunday. Now it is stone dead. Barely a bubble every 5 minutes. It's in a bucket so I can't see whats going on but I am not going to open it until at least 14 days has gone by to take a gravity...

I did the same thing as the OP. Full brew kit, 9 gallon brewpot, external burner and made my first batch. Then I went out and bout a second fermenter and a bottle rack before I even bottled my first batch. Now my first is in bottles and my 2 fermenters are already filled again. Now I am...

Yeah mine was almost identical to that scenario. OG of 1.51 and an FG of 1.018.

I use a big canvas bag. It helps me carry it and it also covers it and shields it from light.

I ordered mine from Morebeer.com. I keep it on top of my tree for storage but I use it on a counter top.

Also I have been doing 5 gallon boils with kits. Should I just drop to partials? For my Altbier I ended up with exactly 5 gallons of wort in y fermenter without any trub at all yet some have told me that full boils with kits can increase IBU's beyond what may be desirable.

Thanks Alpo. I think I was trying to get at that but I am just dumb. You said it much better.

Thanks all of ya. I appreciate the input. I am going to try the 150 degree steep next batch and I did not cover the boil t all on my second. I read about that after I did the first Ale. I only had the lid partially covering but I am not going to do it again. A long 4 weeks it will be indeed!!!

Think of it in terms of flash freezing or heating. When you flash cool or heat a glass you can break it. Because of the violent and rapid temp change you break it. With carbonation in a full bottle there is high pressure but shaking is not as dangerous because the pressure prevents the CO2...

Yes and no haha. Basically you are still getting CO2 production but because of the excess headspace it does not absorb or get forced back into the beer. So you would still get pressure but low carbonation. You need the headspace to fill with CO2 in order to create the pressure to push...

Carbonation all has to do with pressure. If you have too much empty space in the bottle then little CO2 will be pushed into your beer because it has too much space to occupy elsewhere. Basically what you got was a big blast of CO2 that was in the top of the bottle. All bottles pop like that...

I know but the rating does imply certain levels of toxicity. Especially when heated. Europe has already banned certain levels of plastics, including level 7, from numerous applications like childrens toys and cooking plastics. Since a water jug most likely will come in contact with hotter...