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Yeah there is a lot of advice and some of it is pro/con and personal taste (what fermenter type, all grain or extract, etc.). Figure out what works for you and what you like.

Wine related - it came time to degas - this is in a carboy Stirred a little with my degasing paddle by hand. Then connected the drill - effect like opening a shaken beer, foamy redness exploding outward. don't do that.

OP. 1 you will get differing opinions. 2 you will have to figure it out. Anyhow. I've used honey about 3 or 4 times. Once I got a nice honey flavor, the other times it failed to show. I've not used honey malt, most have said that is the way to get honey flavor in a beer. I'd...

Not convenient, more sense for purposes of accuracy... however, after about 3 sig figs more accuracy is not needed for most measures. Yeah landing on the Moon, Mars orbit insertion requires more, but we are boiling 5 gallons of liquid... ok ~19Kg (1L), and at 3 sig figs we are accurate to the...

7point.. .might be 8 . I thought it was closer to 40points per gallon, but it could be 35. Honey either way is a bit funny as the moisture varies a bit, and thus the sugar to water ratio varies. These are bee's not an industrial process. Anyhow at 35 - meaning 7 in a 5 gallon, the 65 would...

Most of us work in both.... X# of malt/honey/sugar/fermentable and then we have that in Y gallons/liters of wort/must and 10.000 P would be 5 sig figs, not a simple task by any measure. Generally in most applications, that would be considered 'rounding error'... although I'm aware there are...

I had this recently with a wine... lost about 4 or so oz.. maybe more... just had to wait it out. And it wasn't the nutrients, but the stabilizers....

What I meant was the definition of each is the same (1deg is 1 gr sucrose in 100 gram solution -99gr water). The difference in values as they relate to SG is that P to SG or Br to SG were experimentally driven and limited by the measuring devices (both temp and hydrometer) of the time...

Ok from what I read on Wikipedia and what you have here, the definition of 1 deg Plato, Brix and the other systems is w%/w of sucrose in solution (usually 1 deg = 1gram in 100 total). What the difference is comparing these numbers back to SG and they all have a little variance there.

Put it on craigslist.... you might get something for it. Since you have other cooling, there doesn't seem to be any need for it in your process.

OP: you might find this useful http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brix There are at least 3 scales used (Gravity/density, Brix and Plato). I personally like Brix as the best because it does a weight%/weight - as in [sugar mass]/[total mass] and should be temp independent. Plato is also...

I'd guess a pot with a 2.5ft diameter is probably pushing a15 gallon range, or larger. But that is just a guess. I put a fig tree into on, had to drill drain holes for the water. It is close to the "this is more than I should be lifting" - a sort of "much more and I risk injury" level.

They sell some fairly large pots - in the 2.5 to 3 foot Diameter range.. I'd probably go with something like that.

I'd noticed that before - that there were some things not answered by the book. I like to know how things work, and either they didn't include the answer to a question of mine, or that question has yet to be explored.

I guess I need to reread that book now.

When it comes to stabilizers/preservatives, they are 'used up' as they 'prevent/kill' yeast. It is possible to just keep pitching more and more yeast and eventually you will over come them.

Woodland... so from what you are saying is that there could be negative effects on the yeast viablity for a rapid cool off from 30C to 20C? That seems plausible, is that was the data suggests?

you can probably get the metal sanitized, but will have to toss the ruber parts, including O-rings and beer line, and rings in the taps. Why would you want to risk that? If you taste it and it tastes good, then you should figure a way to pasteurize it. But I'd not keg it. I might bottle,

you should be ok.... 30C is warm, but not to warm for the yeast.... yeast will go up to about 40C before they start dying. NOW you are correct that there could be some off flavors, but if you corrected it quickly enough, it is doubtful there will be many.

Then you need to look into temp control.... and proper yeast management. I think the yeast are much more sensitive to a 3 or 4 degree temp change than a .003 or .004 gravity change. Basically about 500 flavors of the beer are yeast products and by products. The yeast will be happy to work...