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You probably can find a cheap nylon MIP/FIP to barb (or whatever combo you need) fitting that would be great for that use.

I don't know that I'd use marbles / ball bearings where I could easily buy a single piece false bottom, but I could see valid uses for them. My tun has a 6" round opening at the top and the bottom where the false bottom would go is 12" round, so at best, I'd have to cut a false bottom in half...

JB Weld would probably be the fastest and easiest patch for it. You can get high temperature epoxies as well, some are designed for patching automotive exhaust leaks, etc. but I think the JB weld would be fine in this case.

Interesting idea... pebbles would no doubt be cheaper than stainless ball bearings. They obviously wouldn't be as uniform, but that would probably just be a matter of a few extra seconds smoothing the pebble bed out before starting. They would retain heat somewhat as well. I wonder if any...

White is single density, yellow is double, and pink is triple density (thickest). I only ever noticed pink being more thick than yellow and white, the latter two seem fairly close.

When you open the output (to keg), does CO2 come out? The first regulator I bought (different company) had a high pressure gauge with a dented face. I didn't think too much about it until I hooked it up and it would max out the low pressure gauge and pop the relief valve (no matter what I tried...

The coat hanger is probably lacquer or plastic coated steel, zinc alloy or something similar. You could pull a solid copper wire from electrical cord to feed inside your tubing instead, but it would probably be easier to attach the stone to the end of a racking cane or some other plastic tube.

It could double as an autoclave for sterilizing... Heck it even looks more like one than a normal pressure cooker.

maybe a random orbit polisher/sander?

I doubt it would "bomb", if anything the plastic would warp and leak out the carbonation. I think the bigger problem would be sealing it well enough to carbonate in the first place. Beer sitting in the plastic shouldn't be a big issue since people bottle in plastic and cask in polypins, etc...

If the screw top is airtight, it could work for carbonation (you might be able to fabricate a gasket for the lid if it's just a little leaky) but you'd need a way to admit air or probably more preferably CO2 when dispensing. This could be as simple as cracking the lid open a bit while...

Thanks for this info, by the way. It will be interesting to see how it turns out, in either way it results.

This cider is UV pasteurized, not heat pasteurized like a lot of commercial stuff. As far as I understand, UV is much more yeast-friendly than heat. It also contains no preservatives, which is the bigger reason the wild yeasts were able to start fermentation.

We had an unopened half gallon of apple cider in the fridge. I've used this local orchard's cider to make hard cider in the past as it is very tasty, fresh and UV pasteurized only, but this one was just to drink as is (or was) Well, it was forgotten behind some other containers for about a...

I've also been thinking of doing an expanding false bottom for my mash tun, mainly because the opening at the top is 6" and the inside is around 11". I started thinking about some stainless screen with some sort of spring form edge, almost like the "pop open" car windshield shades (attached...

That controller should be more than fine, it's rated 10A at 250V. And as mentioned, that max draw would only be momentary anyway.

I used one of these a few times and didn't have any leaking. Actually, the one time I overprimed, the one sort of pushed out the bottom a little so it wasn't quite flat. Even then it didn't leak out the cap or anywhere else.

I just did a quick search and all the results I found listed 175°F as the maximum operating temperature of clear vinyl tubing. I wouldn't want to maintain temperatures at or near that for any length of time.

I think the CPVC bit was brought up as a valid replacement for rigid PVC pipe, not tubing. (e.g. building a lautering manifold) I'm sure you could do a CPVC hard line between containers instead of tubing, but it wouldn't be as adaptable to rearranging. Has the tubing discolored or lost any...

Are you talking about the flexible clear vinyl tubing for transferring from one container to another or the opaque white/off-white PVC pipe for a manifold? If the former, I'm not sure how well the clear flexible tubing would work under high temps. It will probably stiffen up after a few uses...