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Snake, Those yellow coated steel hoses (presumably Brasscraft brand) are they 3/8" Female flare on each end? If so where'd you get those? The banjo burner orifice is 3/8 male flare so from your picture it looks to be directly connected to the hose. I've been looking for 3/8" female flared...

That's a good looking keezer! -- Josh

Yep, almost always. -- Josh

Just a followup.. I got the HOA switches wired in and everything is working great. The center "Off" position kills the solenoid valve power, the top "Auto" position allows the PID to control the solenoid valve, and the bottom "Fire" position sends power directly to the solenoid valve to open...

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16&products_id=115 -- Josh

Hopefully that's a magnetic drive pump (sealless). Exceeding temperature ratings for pumps with a seal can spell trouble. I hope everything works out perfect! :rockin: -- Josh

I acquired my used kegs the very same way, and I feel good about it. I used a jig very similar to Bobby_M's above to cut my keggles. Perfect circles. Shop around for fittings and be sure to factor in shipping (which can be quite expensive). Sometimes http://www.onlinemetals.com can be a...

You could run the burners low, with kettles in place. All the while, checking the temp around the kettles and adjusting the burners to get "near" 400F. Grab a pint of homebrew and leave it alone for 1-2hrs. Any paint that was far enough away (and didn't get up to 400F), you probably care less...

At first it didn't click with me why the OP would be "adding back" the first runnings. I quickly realized that this is a necessary step for a gravity-fed vorlauf. Luckily I've always had a pump involved which makes clearing the wort and setting the grainbed a thing of ease. -- Josh

It's hard to tell from the picture, but how stiff is that braid? One thing that will definitely effect your efficiency is if that braid is getting crushed. One key to having a successful manifold, false-bottom, braid coil, etc is permeable surface area against the bottom of the grain bed. The...

Excellent, thanks! Yes, I do plan on putting in an HOA-style switch as you described. For now though, I did a quick test (direct wired without the HOA switch) and got 2 volts when the temp was in, 27-ish volts when the temp was low. :ban: woohoo! Now to wire in the switches... -- Josh

Thanks again kladue! So just to be clear, you are saying I run my 24V hot into #13 and out of #14 to the valve (and run the 24V neutral direct to the valve). Right? -- Josh

I'm having some trouble figuring out the wiring here. I have a SYL-2362 which is powered on terminals 1 and 2 with 110V. I have the RTD (PT100) wired to terminals 8, 9, and 10 and have configured the PID IntY for P100. The temperature reads correctly, no problems there. I have a 110V to 24V...

Can I get away with a single 24 volt 40Va transformer to power both honeywell valves (VR8200A2132) ? Transformer ratings are new to me, but if I'm calculating this correctly, based on what I've read the transformer size should be: volts x load current x 125% (for startup factor) or for each...

Sorry, but this is just not true. Perhaps some burners won't work well with an orifice conversion, but most will work great when done properly. Especially the "kick a** banjo" (BG-14). -- Josh

Maybe a small 90 degree dip tube would help you leave half that much. ;) -- Josh

I'm going low pressure because the honeywell solenoid furnace valves I'm using on the HLT and MT work with low pressure propane. -- Josh

Ok, so you are going with high pressure regulators. I'm converting my banjos to low pressure propane, that's why I asked. Thanks, -- Josh

Did you already drill out the banjo orifices for low pressure propane? If so, I'm interested in the hole you went with. I have this chart, but I'm not sure what the optimal BTUs per hour should be for these banjos. -- Josh

I'm looking around for one of these now. Do I really need a 75Va? Seems a bit high maybe. -- Josh