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Also, I forgot that I am going to add coffee beans in the last few days of secondary.... Can I do this in the last few days of primary, or is this enough reason to do secondary? And again, which container would be preferred?

So if I skip secondary, how long should I keep it in primary for the purpose of sediment fallout?

I have two options for secondary. 1) Into the bottling bucket (6.5 gal) with a sealed lid; or 2) Into a 5 gal glass carboy. I know there will be obviously less head space in the carboy, and glass will hold out oxygen better than the plastic bucket would, but I am curious which of these two...

Good point. I got the dry yeast since it it summer but was also thinking about winter months. Seems like it is so much easier to use dry yeast, especially if there is no difference... Have you noticed any difference in their effectiveness, changes in carbonation, FG.... Anything like that?

I got a kit that recommends either Wyeast 1335 British Ale II, or Safale S-04 Ale Dry yeast. It is for an oatmeal brown ale. OG is 1.060. Curious if one is better than the other or if both will be satisfactory?

Oh ok. Thanks for the explanation. I didn't understand that part of it (them producing their own flavored).

I brewed a beer that ended up with a higher OG (1.090) than I thought it would, as I had a very efficient partial mash. The "recipe" I had for this called for one pack of yeast so I pitched it, but am now wondering if I should pitch another one? The kicker is that the beer is already a week...

Or does anybody have a Pliny recipe that you really like?

I am trying to choose between the Pliny The Elder recipe on MoreBeer.com, Midwest Supplies, and Northern Brewer. Has anybody tried these and which seems to be the best? I do not do all grain so below are the links to extract kits. MoreBeer...

Being it is at 8.6% after 3 days, wouldn't that mean that the yeast took up plenty of the sugars?

What does that mean to under pitch the yeast?

When I say rack, what I mean is to rack it off the trub into the bottling bucket, then will be bottling. I understand that my methods are different than a lot of others probably, but I followed to a cue from a book that came with my brewing kid from MoreBeer.com.

5.25 gal of Todd The Axeman clone

Thanks for the advice! Did you sanitize your beans or soak them in vodka or anything, or just toss them into the fermenter?

Sorry for all the novice questions, but multiple posters have said to let it age. Does this do anything to drop the ABV or change the flavored much? I had planned to let it sit for 14 days for the dry hopping, but I had thought that after about 3 days of the same FG it is ok to rack?

I already did the dry hopping. Unfortunately I don't have the means for controlling the temp but it is currently at 68 degrees so that should be good. Thanks for the advice and the reference to brewersfriend.

Partial mash with 4lb of golden promise ending with 3gal in the brew pot Maris Otter (6 lb) extract and briess Pilsen DME (3 lb) 1 oz Warrior at 60 Irish moss at 15 1 oz Citra and 0.5 oz Mosaic at 10 1 oz Citra and 1 oz Mosaic whirlpool for 45 minutes down to 165 degrees Cooled with a gallon of...

I had a taste this morning when checking the FG and it certainly did have that flavor. Like a wine almost. So with that in mind, as well as an ABV much higher than I had in mind (wanted around 6-7%), can I add water to it before bottling to drop the content a little without destroying the beer?

5.25 gal

It's at 1.024, and I used 11.5g (one packet) Safale S-04, dry ale yeast. Pitched it right in per the packet instructions. Did drop it in at about 82 degrees F and packet says ideal is 54-77 but obviously like I said the yeast took off like crazy right away b