Search results

EDIT: SOLD

Yes, you can certainly do that. You may not get as much from the sparge as you would with dunking it and stirring but it will still work. I used to do that pour over method with my 3 gal batches in a 5 gal pot. Now I mostly mash thicker and do a full dunk sparge as that's simpler for me. I'm...

You must be using something to sanitize your fermenters, kegs, etc. right? Can't you use same process for your gun and bottles? Assuming the beer is fine in the kegs and it only gets infected after bottling then yes I'm assuming it's the bottles or the gun/tubing. Unless the beer is actually...

Why not use starsan? With the vinator it's just a couple quick pumps. It sounds like you've proven to yourself that you can't get away without sanitizing the bottles in some way. https://www.northernbrewer.com/vinator-bottle-rinser

Oh didn't realize you brewed it already. In that case I think it looks great! :rock:

My only experience with pear is in ciders, but it's a pretty subtle fruit. Might need a lot to come through at all. You'll get the cinnamon though.

I'm not sure that you need to get complicated to be well rounded or smooth, but if you want go for it. I was thinking that if you use all debittered malt except a tiny bit of pale chocolate and brown that it will drink more like a porter, but I guess it depends what you want.

The grainbill seems a little overly complicated for a low gravity stout. I'd probably drop the brown and special B and adjust the other grains accordingly. You'll want the roast for a stout so I would make sure that's regular carafa and not the debittered (regular would be comparable to black...

Unfortunately the way to tell would have been to take another reading after a few days, and before packaging. A healthy fermentation should be done in 10 days but that FG sounds high so I'd be worried. I have seen stubborn krausen that doesn't fall despite the beer being finished, but IME it...

I've run into this too. I blame the pit bull, she always looks so guilty.

I actually think the opposite, that beers look darker as things settle out compared to the color during fermentation. They also look quite a bit lighter in the glass though. There may only be so much you can control with extract, but you could try doing an even smaller amount for boil and add...

It looks like you have this set up as an extract batch instead of all grain. I can tell because the recipe report you posted is not showing the Mash Steps section (should be there between "Mash Profile" and "Carbonation and Storage" when you have all grain selected). Select all grain, then in...

I'm getting a 10gal mash volume with 1.5 qt/lb (both Beersmith and Green Bay Rackers), but 1.25 qt per lb gives about 8.6 gals.

I think you are confusing the terms strike water and sparge water. Strike water you add to the grains to become the mash. Sparge water is what you rinse with (either batch or fly). How many lbs of grain are you trying to mash?

With a healthy yeast pitch it very well could be done, though it doesn't have to be at final gravity to dry hop. It may even help avoid oxygenation if you have a few pts to go. Personally with this hoppy beer I'd dry hop now, warm it up a few degress if you can, and keg next weekend.

You might be interested in this thread. Provides some evidence that crystal malts (at least those from Briess) have unconverted starches and may contribute more fermentable sugars than people think when mashed with a base malt, especially the lower L malts. Final conclusions start around post...

From personal experience I would also suspect the preboil mixing. Maybe try taking a first and second runnings gravity as Qhrumphf mentioned and see what that calcuates out to.

Yes those are the correct malts.

This thread is 12 yrs old dude.

It's very unlikely that the extract potential is that off, and your FG's are also very high - as in something is wrong high. Have you checked your hydrometer in water as ncbrewer suggested?