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Ok, gotcha. I was giving my temp ramp rate in the mash tun. My RIMS exit almost immediately climbs up to the set temp, probably because of my slower flow. Increasing my flow should allow me to input more heat. Getting this back on topic, regardless of how much heat you can put into the...

In the mash profile, check the BIAB box and it will calculate the full volume for you. BIAB will have less grain absorption because of the “squeezing” effect that is inherent to the lifting of the bag. BeerSmith compensates for this by using a different absorption rate when that BIAB box is...

You can fix the malt ratios with the grain percentage tool. You can fix the IBUs with the IBU tool. These two buttons are off to the right of the ingredient list.

That’s a good ramp rate. I’m about half that with a 0.5 gallon per minute flow rate. I have opened up my mill gap a bit to increase flow rate. After several brews now, I’m ready to increase the pump size. I was contemplating 2 gallons per minute. What’s your flow rate?

I can perform step mashes in a reasonable amount of time with a 120V (1800W) element RIMS because I’m not losing as much heat from the tun.

damn. I want more head! I've always wanted more head. Can't get enough...

I’ve never counted yeast cells once in my life. Your mileage may vary. Prices subject to change without notice. I use BrewUnited’s calculator to get my pitch rates and size starters. I overbuild my starters by 100 billion cells each time, so I can pour off that portion of the starter beer...

Incoloy is “stainless.” How can you tell by looking at that picture that it is not incoloy?

https://www.homebrewing.org/Gas-Disconnect-Check-Valve-14-FFL-x-14-MFL_p_2156.html I've used these and they work well. Can't disassemble them either.

Curious, and not to derail the thread but, why do you let it sit so long before pumping? Back on topic. I don’t think the MTSS will be able to replenish the heat lost through the pump and lines. I have a 10gal tun and use a RIMS tube with a 120V 1800W element. I can raise the temp 10* in 10...

These should do the trick https://www.williamsbrewing.com/CMB-Gas-Ball-Lock-Fitting-With-Check-Valve-P3358.aspx

a handful of gallons of water/wort is more than enough thermal mass to handle a cycle of a several seconds. the water/wort and kettle will lose heat at a much more steady rate than is being injected into it by the pulsing element. but it's no different that maintaining any other temperature with...

So my last brew day, I drew my post boil sample using a pair of 50mL syringes. I drew right off the top of the kettle, just as boiling was about to start, after the whirlpool pump running for all of the sparge. I ran the sparging line right into the dip tube that feeds the pump, so the low...

So today, I have one last attempt at bottling from my taps before dropping coin on a bottle filler. I disconnected my kegs, and ran caustic line cleaner through the lines, QDs and taps for 10 minutes, then flushed for 10 minutes. I ran a pint of sanitizer from a keg through the tap and a clean...

It would make sense that the unit would power the element for a 70% duty cycle if set to 70% power. A cycle is the length of time from when it first turns on, until it turns on again. It should remain on for 70% of that time and off for 30% of that time.

US Thank you!

Forget the whirlpool arm; you have a tangential port! Just return the pump into the lower tangential port and watch it spin!

No, they’re a function of the tubing used between kettle and flange.

Funny you mention that. I had thought of sliding a silicone hose through the top port for a recirculation return that can be delivered below the surface. Lower tangential port seems like a candidate for temp probe. Mine will most likely function as an EHLT most of the time.

Maybe #1 got clogged somewhere; shut off valve, check valve, QD, poppet? Maybe the keg has a leak? Maybe #2 has more protein and hence more head? Maybe it’s not cold enough? Maybe the gauge is bad? Maybe temp control is bad? I’m out of ideas.