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1. Yes, I do both BIAB and traditional all grain and I have noticed that the wort is clearer. 2. No, though my BIAB batches have more protein break at the end of the boil the finished beer is still as clear as my vorlaufed batches.

BrewingTv doesn't but their old stuff is good. The other channels still have new uploads. I think that they are geared towards all experience levels. If you are looking for a step by step how to brew type channel these probably won't be helpful but you will definitely learn something.

I like the following channels: BrewingTv Donosborn Chop and Brew Beer and BBQ by Larry

It looks like it's getting eaten up by pests too. Hops are pretty resilient so I'm sure it will make a comeback... just don't expect much out of it this season. There are much easier varieties to grow next year if Saaz doesn't work out.

I bet it's fine. I always taste my starters when I decant them and they all tend to taste tart. I attribute the tartness to the beer being unhopped. It will be fine in an actual beer with hops. Also, in the future I would suggest skipping the 10ml starter and go straight to 100ml.

It's volume (fluid ounces). My StarSan bottle has both oz and ml on the side to measure. Since you have a pipette I would convert everything to metric to make things easier.

Don't know where you got your hopshot from but it looks like they add 10 IBU per ml so 5ml will add 50 IBUs. You'll have to use an IBU calculator to figure out how much pellet hops to add based off their AA% to get to 50 IBUs...

He did say "Depending on the style". There are other beers besides NEIPA.

You are worrying way too much. No, it's not suspicious and no it's not an oxygenated zone. Brew another beer to take your mind off this one in the meantime.

What do you mean 'leave them in'? Do you dump everything into the fermentor including the hops and trub?

No activity in the starter? Lager yeast will have a longer lag time since they ferment at lower temperatures and older packages of yeast will have lower viability so nothing you experienced is abnormal.

How long did you let them steep at flameout? I do 20-30 minutes for IPAs. If you really want a lot of hop aroma dry hopping is the best technique.

The white ring looks like it's in the plastic of the carboy. Maybe a manufacturing defect? It's not in the beer correct?

You don't need to cold crash. You'll just end up with a little bit more sediment in your bottles. It won't effect the beer flavor.

If your tap water is chlorinated I would top with bottled water. I would wait until you get a gravity reading and then add water to hit your target OG.

I'm sure it tastes good but to me it looks like carbonated Hi-C.... However I'd probably drink it.

I love clear beer. I'm willing to accept haze in some styles of beer like witbiers or some IPAs but a cloudy pilsner would be unacceptable.

Autosiphons make life a lot easier. I start the siphon and lower it until I start seeing yeast get sucked up then slightly raise it from there. Then when it gets low I'll tilt the bucket/carboy to get as much beer as possible out. If you cold crash your beer for a couple day (Just stick it in...

An immersion chiller will make a big difference but for you first beer just use the ice bath method and see how it goes. If you shop around I'm sure you can find one for less than $100.

As far as steeping temps goes anything under 170F is fine. 20 minutes is plenty of time as well. For fermentation I would keep it in the bucket for 2 weeks and skip the secondary in the carboy. Definitely cool the beer in the kettle before adding it to the fermentor. Your aim should be to...