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AutomationDirect FactoryMation MrH

Funny that you posted this. I can't view your video here at work, but your description sure sounded familiar :) Here's a photo of my trellis from last year. I wasn't quite finished with the guy ropes. The poles actually have a 3 point guy support. I used two of the 10' poles with an eye...

Another option: Thermoplastic Tubing aka Tygon. A bit cheaper than silicone, tradeoff is that it is opaque. MrH

Sorry if this is a hijack, but does anyone have any numbers on how much heat is generated by the yeast during fermentation? Using an internal chiller, I wouldn't think it would need to be all that big to counteract the heat given off, especially if you used glycol at freezing temps. Maybe you...

I am using old PC heatsinks that I happened to have, originally used for older P4 chips probably in the neighborhood of 125W, so they generated a lot of heat. They also happen to have a similar cooling surface area to the SSR heatsinks I've seen. I haven't tested them under full power yet, but...

I built mine back in 1994 or '95 and finally got around to building a dedicated cabinet for it last year to help contain the dust from milling. The mill is mahogany and white oak body with white oak roller support slider for gap adjustment. Mahogany plywood hopper. 2" x 8" hardened tool steel...

I've got 12 five gallon and two three gallon that I use as casks for my handpump MrH

Ok, don't blame me, you threw out the challenge... It sounds like the real problem you're having is the fact that you have SWMBO. Maybe you should just find a more accommodating mate. Just sayin' ;) MrH Erm, since you're not likely to do that, I'll have to agree with CodeRage...

Parts Express is da bomb. I've been using them for quite a while for speaker building components. They're good guys. I'll post a pic of my CP in it's current state later today. It should clarify things a bit.

Brew, by running the indicator off the HOT side of the SSR, I'm directly reading the state of the element, not the control. That way, if the SSR fails and fuses the HOT side, I'll know it by the indicator. I'm using industrial control panel mount indicators for a polished look. I'll post pics...

Yeah, like I said in an earlier post, I've determined these aren't the better quality ones with a socketed bulb. The LED array is permanently soldered in and non-replaceable. I think that's why it's not as bright as with a single superbright LED. When I remove the lense and diffuser, there...

Wow! Thanks a ton for this link! Obviously my Google-Fu has been off, because I searched and searched for exactly this. I'm going to try adding the additional resistance, but if it ends up dimmer as CodeRage has suggested, I'll look at these next. Price is good, too. Looks like a great...

HOLY CR@P! I have no idea how I missed that! Until I looked at it again myself I could have sworn it said 5mA (where's the damn forehead smack imoticon when you need one?) This makes total sense now! Thanks for pointing out the obvious and reminding us all that it pays to read, read, and...

Yeah, those are all last resorts, but since I'm not happy with the brightness of these I may look at getting different ones anyway.

LOL, I haven't even run it from the SSR yet. I have it on a suicide cable right now. I have some old 80's era indicators on a couple of industrial fire pump controller cabinets I picked up at auction a couple years ago. Those indicators are BRIGHT, and I guess I was just expecting something...

116.7V, which is about the best I can expect for our grid out here in the country. We routinely dip to 100V, which is why everything electronic we own is on a UPS. I'm thinking these cheap indicators are just dim. It looks like their more expensive metal body indicators use a replaceable...

Here I got the Yellow 120V ones.

What I think you guys both missed is that there is no neutral on the 240V feed. There are two separate, isolated circuits inside the CP, and the 240V is a three wire feed. If I use the neutral on the 120V feed, there will be a 5mA variance in both the 120V and 240V GFCIs. Checking the specs...

LOL you and me both, brother. The calcs look good to me. The only problem is that it really doesn't look like there are more than two resistors in there, so 11.2K, which adds up to only 56V. :confused: Also, after you mentioned multiple LEDs, I removed the lense and indeed, that's what I've...

Yes, absolutely. I just like the really big yellow light, and I didn't find any external indicator output on my PID (TET612). I suppose I should post a pic of my CP. Now I just have to take one then figure out how to insert it. :D