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This should get you where you want to go. There are other ways to accomplish this, but this is the cleanest IMO. MrH

If you're already looking at B3 or Blingmann money, IMO it's silly to even consider 7 gal over the 14's, since they're the SAME price! I can see it for the Chinese ones since there's such a difference in price, but not for the high end ones. I've read more than one thread here and elsewhere...

Absolutely. You'll need an external temp controller, though. The built-in thermostats in refrigerators won't go that high, and they're not accurate enough for fermenting. Do a search for Ranco or Johnson temp controllers. You should be able to find one for around $50 for analog, double that...

I know you already got yours and it's working, but for others who may read this I thought I'd just say that I've got two TET612s and one of them reads 15-20F high when using a RTD sensor. It works with the K thermocouple that it came with. I've tested the same sensor with three other PIDs and...

IMO, you can't have enough heat shielding when using gas. I don't use keggles. I have 18 gal stainless flat bottomed kettles, and I found that a LOT of heat will escape up the sides of the kettles if it can. I would imagine keggles might be a bit better in this regard with their bottom flange...

Braukaiser has a really good article on this. It should tell you everything you ever wanted to know about efficiency :) MrH

I brewed using this setup for a very long time with one pump. Since you say you're new to AG brewing I think you need to decide what you want out of it. Keep in mind that RIMS, HERMS, and direct fire recirculating systems are nothing more than a means to accurately maintain mash temps. In all...

It's not as bad as it sounds. With v 1.0 of my rig, I used a spiral copper tube manifold for my false bottom in my MT. Out of the 50+ brews I did with it, I only came close to a compaction once when recirculating, but it was because I pushed the limits of my system and had my 18gal kettle...

My setup is a bit different. When I originally built it 15 years ago, everything was very, very, erm, very expensive, so I did a two-tier, but I have my HLT on the top tier and MT and BK on the second tier. I used gravity for HLT and pumped between the MT and BK, then gravity from the BK...

Agreed. I've got two cornys I used to ferment in, so I cut the tubes so I could avoid the trub. Now I'd like to use them for dispensing, and I've got short tubes :D MrH

Just be careful with the ebay PIDs. Most of the ones I've seen don't have manual mode.

Hmm, you know what, you're absolutely correct. I was reading the manual for the 2352 and I didn't realize it also covers the 2342 (relay model). It isn't clear in the manual, but it makes sense. That's too bad. It does have dual alarm relays, but they're only rated for 1A @ 240V. Hehe, I'll...

Ok, so I have read the two manuals side-by-side and have tried to make sense of the differences. Much of what CodeRage said is correct, although both do have Auto Tune, which is a big deal in my book. The 2362 is nearly the same as the TET612 I'm about to replace, but with some significant...

Hmm, from the web page for the 2362: Auto-tune function can find the best PID parameter automatically. Is the web page incorrect on this?

I'm curious about two in particular: SYL-2362 or SYL-2352 Besides the small $3 price difference, they appear to be nearly identical, especially with some of the "new" features listed for the 2362. Am I missing something obvious? MrH

Be careful when buying a PID. I bought two TET612's almost a year ago on ebay when I first started planning my CP (before I had ever heard of Auber). I did some very basic testing (basically to make sure they powered up and worked with the included K Thermocouple. Yesterday I finally fired up...

A bit more than the switch you mention, but a more elegant and safer solution imo, since there's almost no chance of high amperage anywhere near where you'll be touching your CP. (3rd and 4th item listed) MrH

You're going to be hard-pressed to find a heating and cooling solution for $40, but since you need heat now, here's a place to start. I've never used belts or wraps, but I've been considering something like this to keep different beers at different temps for dispensing (keep the fridge @ 39F...

Hi all- I'm thinking about starting a new project that's been on my mind for quite a while now. I won't reveal exactly what it is yet, but it involves shaping some copper sheet to fit a mold. I'm looking for recommendations on what weight copper I should use. It needs to be thick enough to...

You're misunderstanding what I said. I do not use the contactor in place of the SSR, but instead of using TWO SSRs as a way to disconnect BOTH hot legs to the element. Contactors are really little more than very robust high current relays. Most common are Double Pole, and can be used (in my...