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No, it sounds like it is working correctly. When you increase the pressure, then the valve opens, so it increases real time. But when you lower the pressure by turning the knob, it only lowers it when the pressure is relieved (serving or pulling pin).

Looks like sticking regulator then. If it’s still new, I’d return it for a new one. If it’s not under warranty, you could try rebuilding the regulator, but based on your experience, maybe a bit too much. At least you could disassemble it to learn how a regulator works and see if you can...

+1 I use a pound of hulls for 20% flaked maize and still have to manage the mash tun flow rates to avoid sticking. With that high percentage, you’ll have corn porridge with some husks in it, so I think Doug’s on the right track to employ enzymes.

So a regulator works with an internal spring that opens an internal diaphragm to maintain downstream pressure to set point. To diagnose whether you have a sticking regulator, pull the pressure relief pin on the sanke tap and confirm that the pressure drops, then restores. If it doesn’t restore...

Your first two issues potentially point to a busted regulator, though not sure what you mean by “air coming out of the tab” means - do you have a picture of what but you are talking about? The foam topic may be a different problem. What’s your line diameter and length? Could also be warm lines...

Best suggestion I’ve seen, both for target flavors and off flavors, is dosing super light beer (like Bud 55) with drops from concentrated versions included in beer sensory kits.

I also use a hop spider with hop sock with diameter similar to the hop spider. I use a spare TC blank to weight down the fabric to avoid it flapping around in the boil. Others use full metal mesh hops containers that clip on to the side of the boil kettle. I put all hops into the spider with...

With a Breweasy type setup myself, aside from working through above, I can suggest a few additional tips. Water chemistry and achieving pH around 5.2 is helpful. Raking top half of grain bed is helpful. Last suggestion is to share your mash tun / false bottom details, just to confirm you don’t...

Fixing is worth a shot, but depends on the refrigerant. If it’s R-134a, install a bullet piercing valve (clamps around the tubing, so no brazing needed), which would allow you to check the pressure. If it has lost refrigerant, the leak is usually inaccessible, but putting in some $10 stop leak...

Just to debunk the myth, pressure is not the key factor, but partial pressure, which considers also the gradient of the particular gas component. While you have 5-7 psi of CO2 above atmosphere, you have -3psi of O2 inside your conical (-14.7psi x 21% O2 concentration). If you have O2 permeable...

Looks like you’ve eliminated electrical and seized compressor. Only additional thing I can suggest is refrigerant leak, but these units don’t have taps that you can check the cycle pressures. You can install a bullet valve to check pressure and potentially top up with refrigerant or stop leak...

Each yeast is different, so I would suggest to focus in on the one you intend to use and search on it. Lagers are typically good to start on the lower end of the manufacturers recommended range and bring it up through fermentation then finish with a diacetyl rest with a couple points to go. But...

With a keezer, you can have significant temperature stratification. Just to confirm, serving out of picnic taps (no draft tower)? Your best bet is to put in a small fan (I used an old computer fan wired up to a wall wort DC transformer I had kicking around). If you have a tower, it can also...

Back when I bottled (way back), I had issues with consistent carb, so got in the practice of adding the priming before racking, since adding it in the bucket and racking on top wasn’t giving consistent results. I suppose if your sugar adding practice works for you, then you can keep calm and...

Your link didn’t work, so wasn’t clear if it was more like an aquarium heater, coffee immersion heater, or sous vide. Key is you need movement of your wort in some form or fashion or you will overheat the grist at the element (or worse scorch if its not low heat density type element), so you...

I don’t have experience with that one, but did use this one with fantastic results (used it in a peanut butter cup porter, so paired with chocolate as well), but you’ll have to maybe call them to confirm their smaller versions are the same source...

I think the thickness of the mash would put you in conduction heat transfer land, so would get potentially larger stratification of temperatures in the mashtun with all the fun fermentability variation that entails… For maintenance of temperature, have you considered a pump with RIMS or the...

I have a T-tower, so accessible (had leaks to boot), but could you not remove shank, make connections outside the tower (with extra line pulled out through the top), then work the shank back in and secure tap to it?

Will comment on suggestions for your other issues as well. On the first one, the temperature ramp rate is governed by your heating element size rather than your flow rate. With my half barrel 2V k-rims, I am underpowered with only one 5kW element in my kettle. To help accelerate ramps, I...

How are you sampling to take your gravity reading? I expect your volume loss will be pretty accurate, but if you are sampling at the top of your kettle, then very well could be water dilution at the top of your kettle from steam condensation that hasn’t mixed out. Can you whirlpool and ensure...