Search results

I wrote this simple ESB recipe as an attempt at brewing to style. It's not to compete but just to challenge and educate myself. It is only a 3.25 gallon batch as I'm trying to get higher turnover. Smaller batches allows me to afford to brew more. I'll list the ingredients and the specs and would...

Just wondering if you guys think the hop variety used for bittering is an especially important choice. I know that AA and possibly cohumulone will play a part in the bittering qualities, but other than that is there much to consider? Say I was to bulk purchase Galena hops and use those for all...

To be clear, one should ignore the rise in liquid around the hydrometer and read at the level of the majority of wort, right?

I'm looking into making a hefeweizen myself and ran across this. It talks about what different yeasts can bring to the style. Hefeweizen Recipe and Style ::: Brew365

From what I've heard/read, outside of an injection system, pouring some wort back and forth between kettle and primary, and shaking the carboy are the best methods. EDIT: I should say, outside of using any additional equipment, not sure how an aeration tip or a whisk might compare to the above...

I think the Wyeast would be better without a starter than the dry yeast, personally.

I would say just pitch the Wyeast and you'll be fine. Don't worry about the starter this time around.

I watched a YouTube video a little bit back with a Wyeast tech talking about this. He said 4-6 hours is ideal and that waiting too long could actually stress the yeast. Search it for 'when should smack wyeast' and you'll find it.

First off, I've visited the store in Austin several times and I love it. Wish we had something like it in Dallas. In regards to DME vs. LME, due to the higher liquid content of LME the shelf life is lesser. At least this is what Bob Hanson at Breiss says on the aforementioned podcast...

Yeah he said if the LME is refrigerated shelf life isn't really a concern.

I posted about this in another thread today in regards to extract twang. Bob Hanson from Breiss was on the 'Malt Extract' episode of Basic Brewing Radio. He said that LME storing conditions are paramount. The hotter the conditions are, the more quickly maillard reactions take place causing...

As to letting it settle before bottling? The night before should suffice?

Austin Homebrew Supply seems to go through their LME supplies pretty quickly. Wouldn't guess there would be an issue of freshness.

Generally speaking, if one uses a less flocculent strain of yeast, should they wait be longer before bottling? I am only using a primary and plan on waiting three weeks before bottling. Does this sound right? Also, what about moving the primary before moving it for racking to the bottling...

Thanks Yooper. I've got all the old episodes of BBR on my iPod so I'll check out that one. Since I'm new to homebrewing, I'm using BeerSmith to give me a hand in recipe design. Just for curiosity's sake, I checked their estimated IBUs on an IPA I'm working on with all the malt extract for 60...

Yeah, I just listened to an old episode of Basic Brewing Radio about malt extract. It had Bob Hanson on from Breiss. He said that it's a storage issue. The hotter and longer that it's stored, the more maillard reactions that will take place in the LME and thus more extract twang. He recommended...

Why the preference for DME over LME?

Yooper Where can I read/hear the Palmer info on utilization? I use BeerSmith2 to calculate my IBUs and they show a pretty decent increase with a lower gravity boil.

I'm sure it doesn't match some of the more established brewing cities, but Austin, Texas has really had a craft brewery boom.

I think the main improvement from late extract addition is hop utilization. This will increase the bitterness of your beer. I think it also prevents darkening of the wort. All the sugars have been taken out of the grain for you, so it's not a worry with extract. It does, however, need to be...