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Right. The heating element will cycle on and off based on the temp of the wort being circulated through it.

So I’m struggling here. I know to trust the Manometer on the tank, but even with my co2 regulator higher than desired(20psi vs. 12psi desired) I’m not seeing the manometer increase much. Should this take a while? Process: Add head pressure through blow off to 10psi reading on manometer. Set...

I am starting to question the same. I dumped trub and yeast three times. It started pouring clear from the dump valve. When I kegged, it pulled very clear till the very end. Then I saw this when I was cleaning up. Never seen this before.

Recipe author had good success in the mid 50’s. Would a cold fermentation have created this weird sediment?

So I just racked this to my keg. And then was pretty shocked when I went to clean out my conical. The small small sample I had tasted fine. But the leftover sediment looked strange. Any ideas if this looks like an infection? I guess it’s in the keg and there’s no point in worrying.

WLP029

What does acting like yeast mean? I already dumped it. It’s kegged and carbonating. I’ll taste it in a couple days I guess.

I’ve never seen something like this before. This was a kolsch. It was cold fermented at 54 and been lagering around 40 for two weeks. And then crashed to 34 for a week. I tasted the beer and the small(2 tablespoonish) amount tasted fine. But I’m super paranoid about an infection. Thoughts?

Anybody see the brew cubes released? They look nice, but way more than what I would have spent. Funny part, it looks like you’d still need extensions for the controller to the kettles. https://www.ssbrewtech.com/pages/brewcube

So boiling isn’t absolutely necessary?

But there is still a plastic handle. How do you boil the carb stone? Surely they don’t intend on people unscrewing the handle every time. thanks for helping. I’m not trying to be difficult, just genuinely confused.

So maybe I’m mistaken, but my ball valve(with a blue plastic handle) is also soldered on. The only piece I can remove is the barb.

am I missing something with my new carb stone? It’s all one piece. From the stone, to the TC to the crappy ball valve. I tried to unscrew the stone but was worried I would break something.

Awesome! More people in this thread the better. I’m having trouble dialing in my OG. Idk what the deal is, but I think I need to do a deep dive into my boil off/dead space/etc. in Brewfather this weekend.

Correct. I used a mash tun from my previous setup. If you look at the 2v, you get two vessels with electric elements. The 3v is two vessels with electric elements and a rims tube. Both require a way to mash.

It’s all about what style of brewing you want to accomplish. I personally use one vessel for an HLT, Mash/sparse in the tun, and then move on to the boil kettle. It’s all about the style of brewing you want to accomplish. BIAB is very popular, but wasn’t the way I learned to brew. So it’s a...

Either way. You will need a mash tun. I didn’t want to deal with two circuits, so I will probably go the herms route. But in Texas, the mash doesn’t fluctuate much.

Thanks! That’s what I’m thinking. Given that the anova can handle the heating, I could have a dedicated pump for CIP. I thought about a chugger or a riptide, but I was just worried it wasn’t enough power.

What pump do you guys recommend for a CIP installation? I am planning to build a CIP cleaning system for the 14 gal unitank I’m picking up this weekend. But don’t know what kind of pump. I plan to use an extra anova sous vide I have lying around the house to heat cleaning water+PBW. For this...

Anybody else noticing a rust ring right around the bottom seem of their kettles?