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I notice that as fermentation picks up so does the temp. Then as fermentation slows the temp begins to drop this is when I move the fermenter to a warmer spot. For many yeasts this is just a few days into active fermentation but it depends on the yeast.

Sounds like you have a nice cool place to ferment. Leave it alone. Active fermentation will warm it up and then you'll be asking advice on how to cool it down. I see a 5 to 8 degrees above ambient room temp when the yeast really gets going.

Thanks Revvy...Ultraman was a childhood after school favorite. Yes it snowed like an inch yesterday in Jackson...uggg.

Okay so I overlooked that you've been a homebrewer for ten years. How did you determine the 2% number? How did you determine there is now "no alcohol"?

Maple sap is sugar water...so yes.

You're probably using your hydrometer incorrectly. Ignore the "potential alcohol percentages". That's only useful before fermentation and assumes it will ferment totally dry. Most beer will not ferment totally dry. After fermention has begun these numbers are not useful. Try an online...

I like fermentis SO4 in my Irish Red. It finishes dry and clears quickly.

Until you figure out Beersmith here is a few simple calculators. The Rest calculator tells you how much boiling water to add to reach your new temp. I don't usually mash out but some people say it "locks in" the fermentability of your wort and may help thin the mash to get higher efficiency. I...

52.5 pounds at 1.1 qt/pound is 18.64 gallons of mash. What is the size of the mash tun? Did it seem appropriately full? Sounds like you got ripped off.

I am assuming you have the fermenter higher than the bottling bucket. You must be sucking air somewhere probably at the connection between the hose and the racking cane. I use a hose clamp to prevent air leaks and oxidation.

We have a casual group of homebrewers that meet in Jackson Mi about once a month. Bring some examples and maybe someone can help. https://m.facebook.com/profile.php?id=285865381523925&tsid=0.9319440068211406&source=typeahead

Eliminate running your wort through a strainer for aeration. I have read other threads where this was a source of infection. I just let the cooled wort splash into my sanitized bucket from the valve on my brew pot. I have brewed many enjoyable beers without rehydrating yeast, without ferm temp...

I've used Beano to jump start a stuck Amber Ale. It was rich and sweet OG about 1.055, stalled about 1.025. I crushed and added 1 tablet. The air lock kicked in several hours later. I checked gravity daily and kegged it at about 1.009. No problems. If you bottle forget it cause you could end up...

High quality RO water is almost mineral free. It's PH will vary by the amount of dissolved CO2 producing carbonic acid. This acidity will have little capacity to effect mash PH. You will also notice in Brunwater that the starting PH entered on the water input page has almost no impact on the...

Step mashes seem to have fallen out of favor because today's barley processors produce well modified malt. Decoctions on the other hand are still mentioned as beneficial for producing the flavor of traditional German styles. At least that's what "they" say.

Maybe. Wait two weeks and check the gravity. Is it near your target final gravity? Three days later check it again. Is it the same? Yes then it's done.

I second biscuit malt.

There are some no boil sour beers. Not sure what else to say. Try reading some of the "stickies" at the top of the various forum catagories before your next batch.

I used to boil water put it in sanitized bucket, cover and freeze it. I let it sit out while I was boiling the wort allowing it to melt a bit. I carefully added this block of ice to the wort to cool it and reach the final volume.

Your recipe is not full of crystal malt so that is good. I prefer a thicker mash like 1.5 quarts per pound. This might help make a more fermentable mash. I think the biggger issue is your cool ferm temp.