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It is going to take a few brews to understand your systems efficiency. Make sure to take notes on each batch. It will help you dial in your systems efficiency. Also, so you can go back and make tweaks to your recipe and understand what you might need to do differently next time to achieve what...

I've had foaming issue from time to time. I usually fill my 5 gallon corny kegs to about 4.5 - 4.75 gallons. I used to do the same method as you and burst carb at 30 psi for about 24 - 36 hours (Sometimes even 48 hours). I'd then purge and drop it to about 10 - 12 psi (depending on beer style...

This could certainly work as well. I used to do the sou vide magnet and bag method whenever I use my anvil bucket fermenter. It worked really good! However, I recently converted it to use a bigger cooling coil for better coiling than the small one it came with. The top hole that the cooling coil...

I don't sparge in mine. I just do full volume mashes. There isn't a really good way to do a proper sparge with this system to make it worth while. My brewhouse efficiency is anywhere from 65% - 70%. Higher grain bills are on the lower end, and smaller grain bills are on the higher end for me. I...

Yes, the main top port of my FV has a 3 inch butterfly valve mounted to it. I attach a 3 inch site glass with a 3 inch cap on top that has a ball lock gas post and standard pull pin prv mounted on it, so I can easily purge with co2 before dropping hops. Lately I haven't really been using the...

That is one way I was thinking of doing it. I'm just not sure how big and bulky a 3 inch T would be on top of that. I'll probably get a hold of one to see how big it will be in person and decide how I want to do it. My main concern is making the FV too top heavy since it is on the smaller side...

Decided to take a sample today. It looks like it didn't stall out after all. FG was 1.013, and post fermentation pH was 4.15. I'm expecting final pH to be in the 4.3 range after dry hop. Everything landed right where I wanted. I guess I just missed that window to start spunding and capture a...

Thank you!! Yeah I definitely agree with having a safety prv attached. The ss brewtech comes with a big 3 inch tri clamp that attaches to the top port. The only reason why I left it off is because I use that top port for o2 free dry hopping. Once I close the butterfly valve and switch back on...

QUOTE="DuncB, post: 10402907, member: 265668"] I think so. A three inch to 1.5 converter with a T on it fitted to the top with the prv and a separate gauge could be a good mod for safety. Yes that is correct. The ss spunding valve attaches on the blow off arm in-between the ball valve and the...

Well, it is a good thing I went back and checked. I always thought it was good for up to 30 psi. Looks like I read it wrong when I got it. Its max pressure rating is 30 psi, but it says working pressure 15 psi. I must have had a few too many beers when I was reading up on the specs a year ago...

My fermenter is a 7 gallon ss brewtech unitank 2.0, and the spunding valve is the ss brewtech adjustable prv (non etched marking version). I have it attached to my blow off arm just above the ball valve, so that I could close the blow off once I was ready to spund. It was holding 15 psi empty...

I'll certainly have to check for leaks after this batch. I pressurized my fermenter to 15psi with the spunding valve completely closed and it held fine for the few days prior to this batch. I'll try to pressurize it to 20+ psi and open the valve to hold at that pressure to see if it's dropping...

This is all good info that I will certainly need to consider as I venture on with my spunding journey. That is exactly the reason why I wanted to spund on my recent IPA. I was trying to trap all pure natural co2 to limit as much o2 as possible and further help preserve the hop aromas. Also, to...

This is all some good info here. Thanks everyone for the response. When I pull a sample I'll report back if it finished or not and go from there. It looks like timing would be everything when spunding an ale towards then end. I have a Tilt myself, but I stopped using it. It worked great the...

I always thought that they would produce co2 all the way through as well, but just less and less like you stated. That is why I wasn't sure if i stalled them out becsuse i stopped seeing bubbling shortly after starting to spund. My thought process was to start spunding when it was down in the...

Thank you! That was a good article. It is probably safe to assume they have stopped producing co2, but I was only able to capture the last remaining co2 coming out of solution. That is likely why it capped at 13 psi as well. I'll have to remember this timeline for next time I use my spunding...

I brewed up a west coast style IPA last week and decided to test out my new spunding valve with this batch (First time ever spunding a batch). I didn't want to start with pressure right off the bat because I'm not spunding to lower ester producton. I just wanted to capture co2 and preserve hop...

You can recirculate during the mash at a slow to very slightly moderate rate only if you have a way to keep wort heated like in a HERMS, RIMS, or all in one system. You don't want it to flow too fast and compress the grain bed, which can create channeling. You'll have to keep an eye to see what...

I've had some painful brew days that just took way longer than I wanted/planned for. Unexpected things happen, but you learn from your mistakes. As others said, I still learn new things in this hobby with every batch. Learning ways to better your procces in order to make that next batch go...

What was your process? Also what yeast are you using? Some Belgian yeast can create sour/tartness in beer. Same goes for some hefe strains. Also, if your post boil pH was on the lower side of the spectrum, then these yeast can drop final pH pretty low and get you into that sour/tart tasting...